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Tim's Anthologys Build

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  • Tim's Anthologys Build

    Hi Everyone,

    I'm just making this build "Internet Offical". I will post progress as I can!

    I ordered all of the Drivers, Capacitors, Resistors, & Inductors. I even found a source on some Baltic Birch (although it will be a little wait to get it). I'll have to figure out foam, wiring, terminals, etc. as I progress.

    A sincere Thank you to Jim Holtz for all of the support, patience, and advice he has been offering me from behind the scene over the past few years.

    For anyone interested in a Canadian build, I anticipate an approximate cost of $2200-2500 CAD at today's prices. I'm just shy of $1600 into it without the wood, wires, and misc. odds and ends.

    Cheers!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I can relate- BB ply is in short supply, and pricey when you can find it!
    the AudioWorx
    Arvo Pärt
    Isiris MLBL
    Modula MT
    Natalie P
    M8ta
    Modula Neo D CC
    Ardent
    Modula MT XE
    Modula Xtreme
    Isiris
    Wavecor Ardent

    SMJ
    Minerva Monitor
    Calliope
    Ardent D

    In Development...
    Isiris Mk II updates
    Calliope CC
    Obi-Wan
    Saint-Saëns Symphonique
    Modula PWB
    Calliope CC Supreme


    Resistance is not futile, it is Volts divided by Amperes...
    Just ask Mr. Ohm....

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Jon,

      Here in Newfoundland we are looking at special order only for good quality materials. So about $98CAD for a 5x5 1/2" sheet, or $199CAD for a 4x8 sheet of 3/4.

      MDF is much cheaper, but I absolutely hate cutting it! Especially in my basement!

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Heli-Tim View Post
        Hi Jon,

        Here in Newfoundland we are looking at special order only for good quality materials. So about $98CAD for a 5x5 1/2" sheet, or $199CAD for a 4x8 sheet of 3/4.

        MDF is much cheaper, but I absolutely hate cutting it! Especially in my basement!
        I hope you have a good duet collection system in your basement, on the other hand inside workshop is nice to have as the temps drop up North there.
        Painter in training

        Comment


        • #5
          svenarajala,

          I don't have a proper wood shop, so no dust collector yet! I've been working out of the basement for 4 years now building headers, and doing trim work, etc. on my house. It can get really messy! In hindsight, I would have built the garage first.

          I ended up shutting off the air exchanger line in the basement, that was more trouble than I wanted, lol.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by JonMarsh View Post
            I can relate- BB ply is in short supply, and pricey when you can find it!
            It isn't too hard to find around here, IF you want 1/2 and 3/4", and you're OK with BB (not AA). On the other hand, there is no 5/8" baltic birch to be had anywhere, and that's what I used to make cornhole boards out of. I recently found a LOCAL supplier that I overlooked that had some. They were rationing it, and I was able to get ( 8 ) sheets from them. They are BB, maybe BC, but they weren't too terribly pricey either. Like $60 for a 5x5 sheet...
            CADman_ks
            - Stentorian build...
            - Ochocinco build...
            - BT speaker / sub build...

            Comment


            • #7
              Q & A time!

              1) I was thinking of doing my cross-overs on some Lexan/or Plexi-glass instead of wood, to save a little weight where I can. How hot can the resistors get? I don't imagine they would melt anything?

              2) What is a good foam to use inside of the cabinets? Preferably something that can be purchased locally at a box store if possible.

              Comment


              • #8
                The acrylic isn't going to save much for weight. Jim uses pegboard material which is pretty light. It has holes that increases airflow if the crossover is taking a lot of space up in the cabinet, it is cheap and very easy to work with. Also, the holes work great for zip ties etc.

                I don't know what the foam package for the anthologies is but if you can't buy the foam from meniscus, I suspect that they will tell you what they would suggest. They were the main ones selling the Anthology design for years. I bought a foam package from them for my Bordeaux speakers and it was perfect and I suspect Jim approved.

                I noticed the kit isn't on their site. Is a part out of the production of something?

                I believe curt suggests using Zisters which are resistors with a heatsink on them. "Curt Campbell recently made this change to most of the “Statement” series after customers began burning the mid-range resistors." from Meniscus's website

                The anthology may not have a lot of current going through the resistors as it is a different speaker. I would elevate the resistors off of the board. I tend to do this by zip-tying the leads to the board and bending them so they hold the resistor in an elevated position.

                Lastly, making a speaker light probably isn't the best idea. The nice thing about a lot of mass is that it tends to not want to move. with the cones moving back and forth... That is one of the reasons baffles are generally so thick.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi Mikerodrig27,

                  Thanks for the advice. I think peg board and ty-raps is a fantastic idea!

                  I'm hoping to find foam in Canada, but I will order from the states if required. I've been having a hard time getting things from the US since covid hit. I was going to order the complete kit from Meniscus, but between the kit, the CAD dollar conversion, shipping etc. It was approx. $2000(compared to $1500).

                  I doubled up on 16W resistors to achieve 32 W as opposed to the 20 W using standard ceramic resistors. I found an alternative version of the zister type resistor on mouser, if I have to do an other order before the speakers are built, I'll swap it out.

                  Lastly, good point about the weight. I have an old back injury, so my family has to lug this stuff around. They'll still be good and heavy, I'm shooting for sub 90lbs each, but probably won't achieve it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Aside from the wood are there other things I might be overlooking that I should order?

                    I will need: foam(wedge and straight), spade terminals, ring terminals, binding posts, hook-up wire(what is recommended?) , titebond, driver mounting hardware.

                    I have tools, and solder etc.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I cannot see your original attachment right now but do you have the precision port?

                      It would be a good idea to get some speaker feet too if you haven't already. I like the Peavy:

                      Peavey Pack Of 4 RUBBER FEET - LARGE 1 1/2" Diameter And 3/4" Tall 51610 New

                      Cheap and very effective.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks for the suggestion on feet. Also, thanks for the Reminder on the port. Hopefully I can catch the supplier before it ships!

                        What do most people use for binding posts? I kind of like those retro looking black/red one's, inside a black box

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have used Cardas for my first build because the cheap knock offs were not available, and the Ardent D's I'm completing right now used the knock offs from Amazon. Parts Express also has a lot of options too. I had to get long posts for the builds I'm assembling.
                          Painter in training

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            These are the ones that I use for my build. They're pretty good for the price

                            https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...EaAuCCEALw_wcB

                            I built a first one F6 clone amplifier and used these binding post:

                            https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...r-Gold-091-630

                            The only caution with the ones above, the more expensive ones, is that if you bend the tab, they will break off as they are a cast material. They are tough and extremely easy to work with. I tend to solder my wires to binding post to avoid having too many mechanical connections. They take solder well.

                            Best of luck!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks again folks .

                              Rather than continuing to bug Jim via email, I thought I'd ask some more questions here. This is my first speaker build, So... If I seem to know absolutely nothing, that's why .

                              Jim suggested 1 pack of 12pcs (2") *(12") *(12") wedge foam would be more than enough. He also suggested that I need flat foam, and polyfill.

                              How much flat foam would be reasonable to purchase? A half sheet? Full sheet?

                              Also, what the heck is polyfill? Is it like cotton pillow stuffing?

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