Statement project begins

[bostonmurf]

I decided to take the plunge into the DIY speaker arena and after careful selection and reading many online forum reviews/builds and a few emails with Jim and Curt (thanks guys!) I chose to dive in head first and build the Statements.
My overall plan is to create a 5.1 system to replace my current speakers - I'm new to home theater and have built a very nice affordable set up in the last 2 years but feel like i want something really special now.
The Cabinets are going to be very slightly different form the plans, I decided not to have a wide base but instead to keep it the same width and depth as the main cabinet. I ran it by Jim first to make sure it was ok.

I have some woodworking skills and a few tools I’ve collected over the years, still lacking a few items though like a router so I spent a few hours in the local harbor freight tool store.
Heres how things lined up tool wise
table saw
jig saw
router
drill press/ regular drill
oscillating tool
palm sander
table mounted disc sander

next stop consisted of a trip to home depot to get the wood, 3 sheets of 49 x 97 (3/4) and one the same size but 1/2 in. Very helpful staff cut the wood into 3 pieces that I measured out earlier and fit comfortably into the back of the jeep.

Day One
off to a good start, perfect weather to be outside and no dust in doors makes for a happy marriage! managed to get everything cut, table saw a little tricky with the large side pieces but everything else was a breeze - wondering if i should have opted for a circular saw? anyway i can sort out any minor problems with the trim bit on the router. does MDF stand for Makes Dust Fly? glad I’ve got the mask at hand.

no garage unfortunately so there taking up residence in the man cave

[bostonmurf]

Day Two
A little bit slower progress although not worried, I'd rather take my time and do it correct.
My first day using the router and a little bit nervous to be honest. 20 mins later and i think this is my favorite tool! thanks to the jasper jig, circles are a breeze.

Day Three
Everything sanded and made sure to be square and level. All pieces base, shelf, bracket and top sanded to match each other. This way i should avoid any small gaps, fingers crossed.
Ports cut to length - actually used the table saw and it worked great to give an accurate cut. bit messy though.

Question on the ports, are you guys using pipe adhesive to glue to ports together? If so I'm assuming you leave the top flare so the port can be removed if need be.

Bases complete, thanks Jim for the suggestion to cut a 4 - 5in gap out towards the back to allow for more ventilation to the port. Floor spikes installed, everything look stood so far.
Its going to be a couple of weeks before the next day of work due to other commitments, I've given myself about 2 months to complete them. I'm not going to rush them, I'm really enjoying this build!

[kevinm]

Looking good! I see you already installed the spikes....are you planning on listening to them before you add the finish? (paint, veneer). That's a dangerous gamble......Mine were finished in January of this year and I still haven't taken them apart....I decided to build new cabinets instead

As far as the glue for the port, I think I used this 2 part epoxy from HD - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-0-85-fl-oz-Plastic-Epoxy-1360788/100371824



I had the same reaction about the router - a little terrifying, but terrific tool and now my go to for saving the day.

[bostonmurf]

Thanks kevinm
Yes I'm going to build them without finishing and after listening to them for a bit hopefully build in order a center, sub, and then surrounds - providing I have the cash. The plan is to get everything done then decide what finish to go for. I was thinking just a mat textured black as its for a cinema projector room and I'm trying to avoid reflection form the screen but after looking at other peoples pic I'm seriously considering something like a Eucalyptus veneer or a light Burl. Its going to be a lengthy process!

[Jim Holtz]

It looks like you're off to a great start! I don't glue the ports together. They fit very snugly and just sit there so its not been a concern.

Thanks for the pictures!

Jim

[kevinm]

I don't glue the ports together. They fit very snugly and just sit there so its not been a concern.


Jim

Jim is correct...I was thinking of the center speaker

[bostonmurf]

Thanks guys, ill leave the port as is. I should be getting the crossovers today from Meniscus Audio, I decided after much deliberation to let them build them for me - it was approx. $50 per speaker for the assembly and i figured as its my first build its one thing i don't have to worry about. Mark was extremely helpful and supplied me with a full list of components used and plans which I forwarded on to Curt who was kind enough to look them over for me. This brings me to another question, where would you placing them in the cabinet? Should i just use the 5in brackets behind the woofers? also what are you attaching them with - screws or velcro? also i see i have to make a hole for the wires to pass into the 2 mid range tunnels. where would you recommend drilling them? sorry for the many questions i figure better to ask now before the full assembly begins.
thanks in advance
Darren

[kevinm]

I placed them in the bottom compartment where the port is. Since you're supposed to foam behind the two woofers, I figured it was easiest to place them in the port area above the terminals. Mine aren't attached at the moment because they're not in the permanent cabinets....but either method should work well enough. Just make sure the resistors have plenty of breathing room to cool off when they get hot.

[bostonmurf]

thanks Kevinm, much appreciated.

Today the crossovers arrived from Meniscuc Audio - they look great, a really professional job! whats your preference for wire to connect them to the speakers. 16 gauge?

[bostonmurf]

not much to report from this weekend, starting to glue everything together. will post pics after next weekend. Am I correct in saying I should use 2in wedge foam like this for the woofers? http://www.foambymail.com/AW2/acoustical-2-wedge-foam.html

[Jim Holtz]

not much to report from this weekend, starting to glue everything together. will post pics after next weekend. Am I correct in saying I should use 2in wedge foam like this for the woofers? http://www.foambymail.com/AW2/acoust...edge-foam.html

Yes. A 12 pack of 12" x 12" is more than enough with some left over for the next project. It's cost effective too.

Jim

[bostonmurf]

awesome, thanks Jim what foam would you recommend for the mid range tunnels?

I don't know if it'll be any use to anyone but I'm just starting to glue the shelving in, and with the help of the plans I've just highlighted the shelving positions measured form the top.

[Jim Holtz]

The Foam Factory doesn't have 1" flat foam anymore or I just can't find it. I'd suggest you go to a hobby store and look for 1" flat foam in their upholstery section. You need open cell foam that you can blow through. 1" to 1 1/2" eggcrate foam would also work. 1" wedge would work too. I prefer flat but if you can't easily find it, look for an alternative. The mid tunnel foam allows you to fine tune the speaker to your room so it's flexible.

Jim

[bostonmurf]

Thanks again Jim, I'll see if i can hunt some down. If I do go with the 1 in wedge should I cut it with the wedge groove running front to back or left to right.

[Jim Holtz]

I'd do left to right. It'll work better that way, I think.

Jim

[Hank]

Good work, Jim. Are you considering veneer finish?

[bostonmurf]

originally i was thinking of just going with a matt black textured look, i know spraying MDF can be a pain but it would be cost effective and i really wanted to make the speakers sit back and not be the focal point visually as there mainly to be used as a home theater setup in my basement. However.... now ive started to build them i think i want them to stand out and am considering a burl veneer, thats going to be a whole project on its own

Actually heres a question. if i do go the veneer route will i still be able to round off the front vertical edges?

[kevinm]

You can, but it has to be a very large round over...something in the 1/2in range. I've seen others do it...but have no experience myself.

[bostonmurf]

thanks Kevin, I'm probably join to do a 5/8 corner just to be safe then. wish id have got a 1/2 collet router now instead of the 1/4 - am finding that i may need larger bits for some of the parts.

progress!! managed to get a few things glued this week. did a little every night after work and took my time to make sure everything is accurate. the $4 rafter square from home depot is my new best friend

[bostonmurf]

question time again
I'm going to get some gasket tape for the ribbons, should i also add it to the bottom ports?
thanks

[Jim Holtz]

question time again
I'm going to get some gasket tape for the ribbons, should i also add it to the bottom ports?
thanks

It's not necessary on a ported cabinet unless the surface is rough.

Jim

[bostonmurf]

thanks Jim

[bostonmurf]

cabinets have been glued and are upright. they are seriously starting to get heavy! the plan for this weekend is to sand them both smooth and then start glueing the front 3/4 and 1/2 sheets ready to start making the holes for the woofers and tweeters the following weekend. foam has been ordered so ill probably glue that in place during the week. any advice on spray glue for the foam? I'm planning on buying this http://www.amazon.com/3M-Super-Multi...=3m+spray+glue

[Jim Holtz]

The cabinets are coming along nicely. I use the standard 3M #77 available locally at Home Depot, Lowes, Menards etc. for under $12. It's really stick stuff and holds the foam securely.

You'll be listening to music soon!

Jim

[bostonmurf]

thanks Jim.
as I'm about to cut the fronts the plan was to round the 2 vertical sides but I'm still in 2 minds due to the veneer. would it make any different to the sound if i keep the corners flat, i really don't want to bevel them?

[Jim Holtz]

thanks Jim.
as I'm about to cut the fronts the plan was to round the 2 vertical sides but I'm still in 2 minds due to the veneer. would it make any different to the sound if i keep the corners flat, i really don't want to bevel them?

Square vs rounded front baffle edges are measurable. Is it audible? I can't hear the difference. That's one change I won't worry about.

Jim

[bostonmurf]

thanks Jim, i really like the style of the finalists (i think thats your avatar pic) so I'm going square corners. plus it'll be easier when i add the veneer.

[bostonmurf]

Well our Labor Day consisted of sun, rain and a tornado warning...plus a trip it ER on Friday night. Still managed to get some work done though, main boxes finished and sanded down. Both pass through cut out and front 3/4 and 1/2 glued ready to start cutting out for the speakers. Any advice before i start routing the circles? how deep should i make the outer circles to flush mount? looks like a 1/4 inch form the plans.

Also knocked up a quick $6 frame to help raise the speaker cabinet so i can clamp it easily and keep it level.

[kevinm]

I recommend using a scrap piece of wood to measure the thickness of the driver lip, adding about 1/16th in for the gasket material to seal it and adjust the router bit to the height of your mark on the wood. I always recommend measuring...making it too shallow or not wide enough usually means a throw away board......or a lot of creativity to repair it

[bostonmurf]

thanks Kevin, will do. everything else has gone really well but I'm a bit nervous on this bit though!
stupid question time - am i right in thinking i only have to add gasket tape to the ribbons? the woofer and midrange already seem to have a gasket on them or do i need to double up.

[kevinm]

COrrect....just the ribbons. It squashes down pretty good...but you'll be surprised. I forgot to account for it on the kids, and mine stick out a little. Before I decided to switch to a sealed setup, I was pretty tied up trying to figure out how to add the extra depth.

Everything is looking great. Decide on a finish yet?

[bostonmurf]

thanks Kevin, bty just checked out your media room pic on the "Sub build using (4) Dayton Audio DVC310-88s" thread. Thats one hell of a nice setup! my next project after this is the center speaker.

as for the finish I think I'm going for a light veneer for the cabinets and making a separate oversized base for the spikes to stand on out of oak and staining it dark for a nice contrast. that way if i don't like the oak base i can just get rid of it. couple of design ideas going on in my head but nothing solid. my 9 month old girl just started crawling so this weekend will probably be putting up gates and making the house look like Shawshank unfortunately

[kevinm]

Thanks!

It sure has kept me VERY pleased. The center speaker is a fun build and MUCH easier than the full cabinets. Haha. Are you building the original or the 2.0 version?

The new subs sound AMAZING - really didn't think I would see this much improvement from these drivers.

On my new cabinets I am also toying around with a veneer - for the life of me, I can't decide.

From experience, children LOVE to try an pull on the Reference woofers in the Statements - grills come in handy here

[bostonmurf]

i thought about going to the 2.0 version but i use it more for home cinema so i went with the originals. as for the center channel I've seen a version with 2 mids, not sure if thats needed and the plans don't appear to be on Curts website. how has yours been? do you think its worth the extra for the additional midrange design in the center speaker?

yes these are going to be kept in the basement out of reach of little fingers

[bostonmurf]

Another question I'm afraid! when i add the foam how should i place it. if you look at diagram A and B is that all the area i need to cover with foam?

I've seen a few different ideas where the foam should be placed so I'm wondering which is the most effective in the follow ideas.
In diagram A I'm using 2 in wedge foam everywhere (except the pass through which are 1in foam).
In diagram B I'm using 2 in everywhere except for the area between the braces and the midrange which is 1in wedge foam on the sides only, back is still 2in (pass throughs again are 1in foam).
Do i need to go with the B option as it lets air pass down and up the sides of the pass through?

on C should i run the foam right up to the front with a 45° bevel or as in D keep it back about an inch also with the 45° bevel.

many thanks in advance, you guys are the best!

[kevinm]

As you saw from my pictures, I run things a bit hot and definitely listen louder than some cats. I usually watch movies with everything being pushed fairly hard. With that in mind, I thought the original statement CC didn't have the oomph when running the system at 80-90%. With movies utilizing the center channel so much, I always felt that I could convince myself building a center like the 2RCC (or Statement 2.0 Center) would be advantageous because of the improved power handling and presence.

Now all to his isn't to say that the original center is weak by any means. Four watching tv and your average movie, I never complain. But when you put on Battleship and shake house foundation, I can imagine a little more. :W

Also, regarding your foam question.....I used fiberglass so I'm not an expert, but I think A and C are good. If I remember correctly, it's just foam behind the woofer chambers (saying is use "foam everywhere the woofer can 'see'")

[Jim Holtz]

I'd suggest A (trimmed for airflow) and D. I hold back a couple inches from the back of the woofers for clearance.

The center is up to you. The original Statements center is open back and needs room for the back-wave to reflect and blend with the front sound wave. If you're going to push them hard on movies, I'd suggest the Frodaddy center documented here on HT Guide. It'll handle more abuse.

I was at the Meniscus DIY event in Grand Rapids since last Thursday so I've been out of the loop for awhile. It was great fun!

Jim

[bostonmurf]

thanks guys, well this weekend was mixed. got the foam installed for one of the speakers but ran out due to some practice cuts so waiting on a delivery this week to complete. thank god for the electric carving knife although it did make me very hungry for turkey (thanksgivings around the corner!). Saturday not so good. cut out the speaker holes but forgot to add 1/16 extra for the fit. everything is a bit tight and i had a couple of slips with the router so in the end i ran over to HD and got some more MDF. if i didn't i know it would bug the hell out of me. That's next weekends project, get the fronts done and sort the wiring out. i figure about 3 more weekends and ill be done, Sundays get taken up with house hunting.

[bostonmurf]

Hi again
I'm about to mount the crossovers in the cabinet. how does this diagram look? do you think i would get any interference placing one crossover next to the other, I'm going to keep them as far apart as possible. are there any other things to watch out for?
thanks

[Jim Holtz]

Hi again
I'm about to mount the crossovers in the cabinet. how does this diagram look? do you think i would get any interference placing one crossover next to the other, I'm going to keep them as far apart as possible. are there any other things to watch out for?
thanks

It looks perfect to me. I usually build all three circuits on one board.

Jim

[bostonmurf]

thanks Jim, i got the crossovers pre-built from Meniscus Audio (really nice job) and there in 3 pieces. i think for the next build I'm going to give it a go myself but figured for this i had enough to tackle as a newbie
Im already thinking about my next build before I've finished this... i think I've caught the bug!!

[bostonmurf]

Hi again, so I'm getting ready to bevel the fronts around the mids and woofers. unfortunately im stuck with a 1/4" collet router so im limited to router bit sizes. i have a 45° bit, not sure how deep it is but ill check later (it came in this set http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piec...its-46832.html). are there any dos and donts for the beveling process? how deep does the bevel have to be? if need be i could rent a 1/2" collect router.
thanks in advance.

[Jim Holtz]

Hi again, so I'm getting ready to bevel the fronts around the mids and woofers. unfortunately im stuck with a 1/4" collet router so im limited to router bit sizes. i have a 45° bit, not sure how deep it is but ill check later (it came in this set http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piec...its-46832.html). are there any dos and donts for the beveling process? how deep does the bevel have to be? if need be i could rent a 1/2" collect router.
thanks in advance.

I can't give you exact depths to bevel. I do it by eye. I usually camfer or 3/4" round over the back of the mid front baffle as it exits into the tunnel so that the screws have as much material as possible but the rest are tapered back to eliminate any tunneling effect from the back of the driver. There are a lot of great picture examples in the various builds here.

Jim

[bostonmurf]

thanks Jim, yes i figured 1/2 wouldn't be enough. I'm going to get a 1/2 collet fixed router, i can use it later with a router table too. ill get a 3/4 round over and use that on the mids and woofers, from what i see the ribbons don't need beveling? anyway here's some new pics. wiring complete and new fronts cut out. decided to cut out the 3/4 first then glue and router out to finish, for me it was easier to cut and if i made an error on the circles I'm only doing it to one piece of wood. slowly getting there!

[kevinm]

Correct on not beveling the tweeter hole.

Looking good!