2 18" IB Manifold Design, look good?

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • NoDestiny
    Member
    • Jan 2009
    • 97

    2 18" IB Manifold Design, look good?

    Image not available

    Just ordered 2 Fi Audio 18" IB subwoofers to replace my Dayton MKIII 12" ported. Designing a Manifold for it (this is my first attempt at IB) and wanted somebody to double check my work to see if anybody has some experience that can point out any mistakes or possible "I hate my life" issues in the design for the future.

    The brown is MDF, Orange is OSB. The first baffle layers would be 1/2" MDF (unless I can only get my hands on plywood) to help flush the subwoofer up, as well as hang down to the drywall and allow me to put a few screws in to anchor to the studs. The rest of the MDF (sides, top, and 2nd layer of baffle where sub actually mounts) would be 3/4". I'm thinking 1/2" OSB would be enough... (?)

    Width would probably be ~ ~20.75" ID (giving 1" each side from outer edges of subwoofer).

    Plan is to mount box, cut out drywall, anchor box down to studs, put subs from inside manifold. Something about mounting subs from the attic just doesn't tickle my fancy I guess (but then again, that's why I'm here to ask)

    I realize that there is a dedicated forum to IB (and ThomasW is commander and chief on the subject), but just wanted to get input from a more familiar forum.

    Oh yeah, ignore my "not so much to scale" drawing... MS Paint does wonders when whipping diagrams together
    Last edited by theSven; 27 June 2023, 21:09 Tuesday. Reason: Remove broken image link
  • weverb
    Junior Member
    • Dec 2009
    • 17

    #2
    The last two pictures show my two manifolds with Fi 18's. I just used two layers of birch plywood. I was able to make one manifold out of one sheet of birch.

    DIY (Do it yourself): Cabinetry, speakers, subwoofers, crossovers, measurements. Jon and Thomas have probably designed and built as many speakers as any non-professionals. Who are we kidding? They are pros, they just don't do it for a living. This has got to be one of the most advanced places on the net to talk speaker building, period.


    I would skip the 1/2" layer of MDF. You want the opening to be as wide as possible. Just use tie plates to anchor to the joists. I would route the recess (~1/2") into the MDF. It will help hold the driver while you mount it.

    Don't forget to place closed cell foam strips between the manifold and the joists to help seal things off. You can also caulk it. Also don't forget to caulk the inside of the manifold to seal it.

    Your width looks good. I did something similar so a standard 14"x20" vent would cover the opening.

    Thomas' site is the best resource. I would read his FAQ section a few times. :T
    Last edited by theSven; 27 June 2023, 21:09 Tuesday. Reason: Update htguide url

    Comment

    • NoDestiny
      Member
      • Jan 2009
      • 97

      #3
      Yup, definitely read through it a few times. Good info in there. Of course, no 2 installs are the same so I wouldn't expect any pre-designed builds for these.

      So are you thinking something that doesn't slip in between the joists like what I have in the pic (w/ the 1/2" MDF in there)? I thought it would also look better than looking up and seeing any of the joists.

      Comment

      • ThomasW
        Moderator Emeritus
        • Aug 2000
        • 10934

        #4
        Can't see the graphic, so I can't comment. My guess is you've exceeded the bandwidth of the account

        IB subwoofer FAQ page


        "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

        Comment

        • NoDestiny
          Member
          • Jan 2009
          • 97

          #5
          DOH! No, I moved the file whoops.

          Fixed

          Comment

          • weverb
            Junior Member
            • Dec 2009
            • 17

            #6
            Originally posted by NoDestiny
            So are you thinking something that doesn't slip in between the joists like what I have in the pic (w/ the 1/2" MDF in there)? I thought it would also look better than looking up and seeing any of the joists.
            You need as wide an opening as possible. Once you paint the inside of the manifold and trusses the same, it is not easy to tell the difference. It gets even more difficult if you place a cover of some sort over the opening.

            Image not available
            Last edited by theSven; 27 June 2023, 21:10 Tuesday. Reason: Remove broken image link

            Comment

            • NoDestiny
              Member
              • Jan 2009
              • 97

              #7
              Hey, that doesn't look too shabby at all!

              Comment

              Working...
              😀
              😂
              🥰
              😘
              🤢
              😎
              😞
              😡
              👍
              👎
              Searching...Please wait.
              An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

              Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
              An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

              Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
              An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
              There are no results that meet this criteria.
              Search Result for "|||"