Crossover placement question

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  • tizeye
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 15

    Crossover placement question

    Beginning to start the crossover during the time breaks for the various stages of veneering and wood finish on SR71's. No problem with following schematic and soldering, the question is more where to place the crossover. First preference is inside the box, but where, with bottom preferred over rear.

    Following guidance on Troels's site, http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm , optimal positioning of inductors with at least 10cm separation (11.5cm in this case) is flat with upright perpendicular. Generally, I have read to be careful of interference from the woofer magnet. Based on the picture, while I am not concerned about the 3.3mh all the way rearward, is there enough clearance from the magnet for the smaller .15mh inductor? The small coil is inline with the woofer magnet and actual distance from the center of the coil to the edge of the magnet is 4.5CM (or 2 inches). Alternately, I could gain a little more separation by taking the crossover the additional inch to the front baffle which in turn would remove the coil from directly under the magnet.

    Image not available

    Alternately, should I fasten the crossover to the rear on the risers provided by the terminal post? Will try to find nonmetalic screws to avoid interference with the inductors magnetic field. With soldering, I plan to insulate the terminal connections with shrink wrap as I also insulated the hurricane bolt end for the removable rear. (In the picture, that black line indicates where the board would be cut for bottom, and probably rear, placement.) Obviously, in this case would put 1" foam on bottom of cabinet, rather than the 1/4" shown in the first picture used primarily to keep the crossover from vibrating on bare wood. I usually secure to the bottom with velcro strips anyway.

    Image not available

    Finally, if I elect to do external crossover, how long a run can I have between crossover and speaker? Re-doing the speaker stand base may be doable except for the 4 large wood screws that attach the base to the column. More realistic may be all the way back by the receiver.

    Incidentally, the technique I used for the removable rear was to rabbet sides, top and bottom just over an inch deep, then insert the 1/4 single frame in lieu of single corner braces. That is also why you see the foam incut on the rear with the remainder on the brace panel for full rear foam. Rear is painted as shown in the picture, while front, sides, top and bottom will be oak veneer which will match the paint/veneer combination on the stands.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by theSven; 10 June 2023, 20:52 Saturday. Reason: Remove broken image links
  • tizeye
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 15

    #2
    I figured it out!

    Split the circuits. Woofer circuit on the bottom, and tweeter circuit on the back. A side benefit is that it actually increases the distance between the two inductors while maintaining a small footprint for both.

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