https://www.htguide.com/forum/ en Mon, 11 May 2026 09:28:23 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.htguide.com/forum/images/misc/rss.png https://www.htguide.com/forum/ https://www.htguide.com/forum/forum/mission-possible-diy/960454-epique-tv-stand Thu, 23 Apr 2026 12:26:07 GMT
The TV stand should be designed with the following criteria in order of importance:

1. Must have TV support for up to a 48" OLED
2. Must match existing style present in the bedroom, including a bed frame and bedside tables (and future bookshelf). This basically means thick plywood slats (36-54mm) finished with clear shellac and wax with stainless steel hardware accents.
3. Must have at least one shelf to support at least a WiiM Amp Ultra and (probably) a WiiM Amp Pro, with room to expand if need be. These are compact devices and given the necessary width of 40"+ for the TV they should easily fit on a single shelf. Other devices may include an nVidia Shield and subwoofer amplifier. Xbox support may be nice to have, but I'm not sure sufficient room is present. Stacking of devices should be avoided.
4. Must have some means of cable management, including the hiding of any power bricks and/or power strips.
5. A center channel should be integrated to enhance dialogue clarity.
6. A smallish subwoofer should be integrated to support smaller speakers in the room.
7. Use owned speaker drivers and such when feasible.

There will be a pair of separate L/R channels in the room flanking the TV stand, but only maybe a foot or two outside the TV itself due to space constraints. Design of those speakers is open at the moment, but I'm leaning towards wolf_teeth's 'Monoculus' design. This could change, but I have several Tang Band W4-2315 coaxial drivers on their way as of earlier this morning. I ordered three as I intend to use one for the center channel. There are only a handful of small ~5" coaxial drivers on the market and I narrowed it down to the TB, a lower cost option from Dayton, and something from KEF. I have a pair of the Daytons and they are okay, but not quite what I was looking for. I 'think' KEF has several models, but the lowest cost would still require buying at least a pair of speakers in order to 'harvest' one of their lower-end coaxials. Based on the success JonMarsh had with the larger variant in theSven's center channel and the success Wolf had with the Monoculus, I felt the TB was a very good option. So much for criteria #7. I'd like to have a pair of ~5" woofers to either side of the coax, and if I'm using what I have on hand I'm limited to using the MAC-05 (which is a silver cone that I think would clash with the rest of the aesthetic) or the Dayton Audio Epique E150HE-44. I don't have solid plans for the pair of Daytons I have so let's put this in the 'maybe' category, however to get the most out of them I'd probably need a quad of the matching passive radiators.

Based on space constraints I could not reasonably exceed 8" for a subwoofer and it would need to be down-firing. I have several subs but quite a few are larger than that, some substantially so. I have maybe a dozen RSS210HF subs that are dedicated to other projects, plus the HO variant would be better suited for this application, imo. However, in addition to the E150HE-44s for the center, I have a quad of the E180HE-44 as well. In 20L (which is, coincidentally, what I have to work with right now) and with a pair of the matching passive radiators it's relatively flat to 40Hz. It seemed promising so I ordered a pair of the PRs to go with a single sub.

• Note 1: I'm aware that sub placement under the TV is probably not optimal. However, this is a smallish bedroom and the corners are unusable due to existing furniture and door placement. The only other place a sub could go is under the bed, and while there is substantial room available there I do not want to run a cord across the room and I don't quite trust wireless for that function just yet.

So, with all that in mind here is the first glance at what I've come up with so far. I need to work on cable management still, especially for power bricks. Shelves are not shown so some details can be seen, and we're just sticking with sealed on the center channel woofers for now.

• Note 2: The corners of the stand must be constructed as shown to match the style of the room. The top will also overhang the front by around an inch, meaning vertical directivity will be compromised somewhat. However, room aesthetics are more important to me in this case.
• Note 3: You might note the sub enclosure is high off the floor, in this case by seven inches, which leads to wasted space that could be used for hiding of cables or even an additional shelf. The enclosure itself is likewise seven inches thick. This matches the room aesthetic - the beams for the bed at seven inches off the floor and are also seven inches thick. I have not decided how important this aesthetic is to me just yet. The pros of moving the shelf down by, say, five inches are pretty enticing.

Edit:

• Note 4: I'm not sold on the center leg, it's mostly there to help hide cables but I don't think it would work particularly well for that. It certainly isn't necessary to support the weight of any shelf. My wife suggested completely covering the area behind and between the shelves with a thin (1/4") piece of plywood to completely hide the wires back there, but I think that goes too far. I like the 'open' back as it makes the piece seem less large. There needs to be an in-between option...I have a couple ideas on this that I haven't thrown into CAD yet. Things like running wires inside shelves and the legs, that sort of thing. I'm very open to ideas on this point!

]]> Mission Possible DIY technodanvan https://www.htguide.com/forum/forum/mission-possible-diy/960454-epique-tv-stand https://www.htguide.com/forum/mission-possible-diy/woodworking-tools-techniques/960424-large-threaded-inserts Sat, 18 Apr 2026 14:39:21 GMT
Edit: These would go into Baltic birch plywood and really don't need much holding power. I made a bed frame a year or so using 3/4" bolts - mostly for the appearance of the bolt head. I want to match that with some bedside tables but the design wouldn't allow for placing a bolt and washer/nut like I did for the bed. It'd need to be threaded in. I have also thought about just gluing the tables together and then gluing in stubby bolts with the appropriate head so I get the appearance, but I'd rather not go that route for a couple of reasons.]]> technodanvan https://www.htguide.com/forum/mission-possible-diy/woodworking-tools-techniques/960424-large-threaded-inserts