Help me build my new PC

[Chris D]

Okay. Well, I considered changing out some of my choices, but in the end, when the case showed up, I got antsy, and just decided to put the thing together as I ordered. It was pretty cool. Glad I decided to do it. (so far, at least)

A few quirks here and there, but by and large, the case came together fine. With a few exceptions, it's a super nice case. Just took me longer than I thought, which I'll chaulk up to being my first time. Didn't bend anything, as far as I know.

Got it all assembled, hooked it up to my office setup, turned it on fine... no display. Crap. Being my first build, I didn't know what to expect, if I had to start by playing with the BIOS before OS installation, or video drivers, etc. Tried several different plugs to the monitor (DVI, HDMI, VGA) and got a flicker with VGA, but overall no display. Turns out I'm pretty sure my old monitor is dead. It's just out of warranty, so now I've got to figure whether to fix or buy a whole new one. So the bummer is, I've got a great new brand new computer, and limping along with an ancient backup monitor.

So I got it working via VGA with an old 1997-era monitor. It hung up the first two times I tried to install Windows 7, (Pro edition) but then completed fine. I can't find the 100MB partition it said it made the first time, so hopefully that got erased.

I'm trying it out first, before I do the cable management to clean it up, and then put the side and top panels back on. Here's some in-work pics to whet the appetite before the final product:

All the goodies ready come out of the package and play:





Case with side and top panels removed, showing PSU installed in the dedicated top compartment for PSU and optical drives. Silverstone recommends that PSU's with fans 120mm or larger be installed with fan facing down.





From the right rear towards the front, showing the massive 180mm front case fan.





Motherboard all assembled on the mobo tray, with processor, CPU fan, 4 sticks of memory, and extra graphics card. Ready to go into case.





This PSU was packaged up pretty nice. Velvet bag for the PSU. Nice fancy pouches for the included cables.

[aud19]

Looking good Chris! So how's it running?

[Chris D]

So far so good. But I want to try it out on a good monitor!

[Chris D]

Still waiting on a new monitor. But in the meantime, I put in the rear 120mm exit fan to help with venting the air, since it'll be blowing right on the back panel of the cabinet it's in. I did the final cable routing management, and I'm really pleased with the way it turned out.

So far, I'm really glad that I did this. There's been a few hiccups, and a few I haven't figured out yet, but there's some obvious benefits of having built my own PC, with features and options that would not have been possible with a pre-built PC.

I got into the motherboard control program today, and was pleased to find that I can control the fan speed of the front case fan, the CPU fan, and the rear exit case fan. I set up a profile that varies each of the fans with the temperature of the mobo and CPU (which are running at 29 degrees C--I don't know if that's good, but it seems that way to me). So, since the fans aren't constantly running at peak speed, and the power fan doesn't run at ALL unless the power temperature rises, the case is VERY quiet!

Here's the left side of the case with the side panel removed. Cables routed behind the mobo tray.





The right side, with all items in place, and all cables routed for minimal interference. The only one I couldn't route out of the way was the power cable for the hard drive.





The rear panel. I'm actually fairly disappointed with how flimsy the cutout cover is for the mobo ports, but the rest is nice.





The front panel before panel reassembly, with both drives, front USB 3.0 and audio ports. I may figure out something to put in the bottom 3.5" panel, but will probably leave it blank, as-is, if whatever monitor I get has its own built-in memory card reader.





The final assembled case. Good size. I'm glad I went with the micro ATX. I got everything I need in the case, with room to spare, and it's a much more manageable tower size than the larger Dell cases I bought before. I still think the case is great, a real cut above the rest, although it could be improved a bit. Shows scuff rather easily, and even fingerprints show up very easily. But I'm definitely now a "metal case" kind of guy.

[aud19]

Looking good Chris :T

[Kevin P]

Nice build! Liking it so far?

How come you put 2 BD optical drives in it? Just wondering.

[Chris D]

Well, my thought is, I have the capability of copying a BD, one to the other, if needed. And if one goes down someday in the future, I still have full read and burn capability.

[Hdale85]

Well....I'm not sure there is a program or anything that'll let you do a direct copy....even copying the ways I know how are sort of a grey zone on the legality and a bit harder to track down how to's.

[Chris D]

Revisiting this thread many years later, as I am now considering moving this PC into my home main equipment room as part of a massive home electronics installation, upgrade, and programming project. It would primarily function as a NAS, but also have functions as a HTPC. Possible future functions with home automation control, but right now I have other things doing all my automation work, primarily a URC Total Control system.

So I have a few questions, on how to go about adapting this rig for these uses, and sure could use y'alls advice.

1. For peforming NAS functions, I'll need more storage. Currently just the one 2TB WD SATA drive, but I'm going to want at least 4 TB total storage space, particularly for music and movies. One guy pointed out that my current mobo only does like RAID 1 and 10, so he recommended that I buy THIS RAID CONTROLLER to gain RAID 5 capability. I'm understanding that if I buy 3 more of the 2TB drives and use RAID 5, I can use 2 TB for the computer's OS and programs, and then yield 4 TB for NAS storage. Would you guys recommend this, or something else?

1a. Jason, based on what you previously said, I wonder if it'd be better to buy a smaller SSD for the OS, move the 2TB drive to a RAID array, and just buy two more 2TB drives for the array instead of three. Have a particular SSD recommendation? Looking at my case, it looks like I could even go with a 2.5" SSD, which would free up a total of five 3.5" bays for now or future NAS hard drive installation.

2. I'm still wanting to set up the storage portion so that it appears as a network drive to all computers on the network, so they can save files straight to the NAS. I understand this can be done somehow, with Win 7 Pro?

3. If I do this drive reconfiguration, would it wipe out everything I have stored on the computer currently? Would I have to reinstall Windows? (Win 7 Pro)

4. The graphics card says it supports HDMI 1.4a, and I'm currently using its HDMI port to my Dell monitor for video. I haven't tried yet, but will I be able to output audio over the graphic card HDMI port as well, to my home theater AVR? (I don't have a dedicated audio card if it matters, but there's also a native HDMI port on the mobo) Goal is to output both video and multichannel audio over HDMI, such as BD playback.

5. You guys happen to know if I'll be able to output 3D video too? Based on graphics card specs, I think the answer is yes

6. Any suggestions for how to control the unit via keyboard/mouse/whatever, from the theater, which is 30 feet away from the equipment room? I did discover this device, which I just programmed to control a PS4 via IR: www.flirc.tv. I have the ability to connect anything necessary to the unit, to use IR, RS-232, or IP, whatever may be possible and best. I could even buy a USB extender over Cat 5 if needed (have Cat 5 running everywhere in-wall in the house), but those can get very expensive.

[Kevin P]

1. I would use a SSD for the OS/programs, and use the 2TB drives as the data array. You don't need 2 TB for the OS, yet.

2. You just create a shared folder on the drive, and set the permissions as needed.

3. There are tools that can move your OS install to another drive (Ghost, Acronis, Clonezilla), otherwise you'd have to reinstall.

4. You should be able to send audio through the HDMI out. It should show up as its own audio device in windows.

5. Depends on the card and the driver.

6. Don't really know offhand. Some Bluetooth keyboards/mice can work at 30 feet, maybe some of the wireless ones do too.

[Hdale85]

What software do you plan on running as an HTPC? If using XBMC you can do everything you need over IP either through a remote system such as what you're using or with a tablet/smartphone. I use a program called yatse which is a XBMC remote. Oh sorry it's actually called Kodi now, they changed the name of the program a while back since now days it has very little to do with the Xbox it was built on.

https://www.kodi.tv

[Chris D]

I'm planning on staying with the Win 7 Pro that's already on it, unless you guys see some issues there.

Questions about RAID that I'm not able to find on the internet. Let's say I do put a new SSD in for the OS, and then put three additional drives into RAID 5 for storage.

- Do all three drives in the RAID 5 need to be the same size? Same specs? (i.e. could one be a WD Caviar Black, one a Caviar Red?) Or does uniformity yield better performance? (I ask, like if I could maybe buy two 3TB Caviar Red drives and put them in the RAID 5 array with the existing 2TB Caviar Black)

- If there are 3 drives in RAID 5, could a 4th drive be easily added to the RAID array for expansion in the future? Or would adding an additional drive in the future require wiping the existing RAID drives clean and starting over?

[Hdale85]

Ok but windows 7 pro isn't an HTPC interface really....unless you're just planning to use it as a PC

[Kevin P]

I think MS has a Media Server product you can use for HTPC.

For RAID 5, the drives should be the same size. If they're not, the amount of space on the smallest drive will be used on all 3. So, if you RAID 5 two 2TB drives and a 3TB drive, 1 TB of the 3TB drive will go unused. Identical drives are the best way to go, but aren't absolutely required. Just note that if you have to replace a drive in the array, the replacement drive has to be identically sized, or larger, in order to work. If the array uses disks with N sectors and you replace a drive with one that has N-1 sectors, it no workee.

Adding another drive to the array requires the array be rebuilt. Depending on the RAID software, it may be possible to do a non-destructive rebuild, but it will take a while. It might be more efficient to back up the array, add the drive, build the array from scratch, then restore the data. You should take a backup in either case, so it may turn out to be a wash in terms of time required.

Maybe you could use an unRAID server for your media storage, and a separate HTPC. With unRAID, the drives in the array can be different sizes (the only requirement is the drive designated for parity be the largest drive), and you can add/remove drives without rebuilding the whole array. Only the parity drive has to be rebuilt.

[Hdale85]

If speed isn't an issue unraid is nice.

[aud19]

Maybe you could use an unRAID server for your media storage, and a separate HTPC. With unRAID, the drives in the array can be different sizes (the only requirement is the drive designated for parity be the largest drive), and you can add/remove drives without rebuilding the whole array. Only the parity drive has to be rebuilt.

That's what I'm using/recommend :T

Just a better solution IMO unless you're going to go all out (which isn't really needed at home for most people).

I seem to remember seeing something (possibly with Docker containers) that would allow you to run one machine as dual system. Otherwise though, I'd recommend using two separate machines - a NAS and whatever for media playback or a "HTPC" (I use a WDTV). Trying to get one box to do too much tends not to end well :lol:

[Chris D]

Yeah, if I take a step back and look at purposes and what I need, here's the deal:

1. My current NAS is a 6 year old Drobo, with an attached module to enable ethernet connection. Pretty slow, drops network connection periodically, and doesn't seem to do well serving up media files to media players on the network. The most important thing that needs to be able to be served to network players is an iTunes library. It's also just about out of space. (currently a little over 2 TB total storage) Therefore, I'd like to get a new NAS for the home.

2. I have a Laser Shot game system for the theater. http://www.lasershot.com/cosumer-home.html This requires running from a computer, audio and video output to the AVR, and a laser detection camera via USB 2.0 to the theater. (again, my theater 30 feet from equipment room). Laser Shot specifies the software games requires "a Windows Operating System" which makes me think I should stick with the existing Windows 7 Pro OS, and wouldn't be able to do Linux or UnRaid. I don't do PC gaming anymore, so there's no need for other gaming capabilities, and Laser Shot seems to have pretty low system requirements. So, I do seem to need a PC of some sort in the equipment rack.


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Combining these two requirements, that my current budget is limited, and that the PC in this thread already exists and is going underutilized elsewhere in the house, leads me to thinking about going in this particular direction. I'm definitely open to input though from those more knowledgeable! I'm currently leaning towards doing this:

A. Move this PC to the house equipment room, for the purpose of being an NAS and limited HTPC functions like running the Laser Shot system.
B. Buy this RAID controller http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007P77WAW/...R19CNE1R&psc=1
C. Buy this SSD to run the OS, Laser Shot software, and other select software like iTunes and Power DVD. http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-In...ords=ssd+drive
D. Move the 2TB Caviar Black drive to the Drobo to expand space, and keep the Drobo on the network to back up key files from the NAS and others. (like a backup to backups)
E. Buy three more 3TB Caviar Red drives and put them into this HTPC in a RAID 5 configuration for whole-home NAS. (one reason I'm considering this is I have a $175 Dell certificate from buying my latest laptop, and Dell has a limited selection of HDD they sell, to include the 3TB Caviar Red)

Open to input

[aud19]

A little beyond my level of expertise but I believe you can run both unRAID and a VM of Windows on one machine.

http://lime-technology.com/forum/index.php?topic=34844.0

That said, I still think separate machines is a better and more straight forward solution and far less likely to strain your hardware (playing a video game in W8 while streaming music and 1080p from unRAID to other rooms). That's going to require some serious CPU/RAM I'd imagine.

Frankly, I'd leave the PC largely as is and let it run as a HTPC/game system.

Use the money you were going to spend upgrading it and build a NAS (including utilizing your current hard drives).

[Hdale85]

I wouldn't run VM's on anything but server hardware that supports the nicer VM features so you can actually dedicate hardware to certain VM's and network them together and what not. I was wanting to do something similar with my new server but I couldn't make it work in the end.

[aud19]

I wouldn't run VM's on anything but server hardware that supports the nicer VM features so you can actually dedicate hardware to certain VM's and network them together and what not. I was wanting to do something similar with my new server but I couldn't make it work in the end.

As I said, I'd recommend two separate machines :lol:

[Hdale85]

The funny thing is my board is a server board, but I thought it had a feature that it didn't

[Chris D]

Grrrr... having problems, and need help. From the start, building this PC years ago, it would suddenly go to the blue screen of death from Windows. I didn't think too much of it, as that seems to happen with all Windows PC's. Then there was a stretch of time where I wasn't using the PC, and my wife told me it wouldn't start up and was giving a big deal error message, but I never got around to looking for myself, and the PC sat unused. As part of this project, a couple weeks ago I fired up the PC, and Windows said it failed to start up and gave the option to repair windows. I let it do so automatically, and Windows seemed to start up fine. However, I kept getting the blue screen of death here and there over the last 2 weeks.

So what I've done so far is buy this SSD: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-In...ords=ssd+drive I've ordered three Caviar Red 4TB drives for a NAS RAID array, but have not yet installed them in this or any other computer, so the only change that's happened is replacing the 2TB Caviar Black drive with this SSD. Oh, and I did update the mobo BIOS to the lastest version, from the ASUS website.

I was hoping that replacing the SSD (which BTW, I really like its speed and quietness) and starting over with a fresh Windows 7 64 bit Pro install would take care of all blue screen of death problems. But if anything, it's only gotten worse. I stumbled through the fresh Windows install and was getting several BSOD, so I started over a 2nd time with a fresh Windows install. This time, I was getting BSOD during the install, and at one point was having problems with the system even booting to the Windows installation DVD. Finally made it through the 2nd fresh install without errors, but I'm still getting some BSOD.

On the Windows installation disc there's a "Memory diagnostic", so I ran that overnight for 10 hours, and got this:





And when the BSOD pops up, it either doesn't give any useful error details, and/or flashes and reboots the system too fast for me to see. Here's the most recent one that stayed on-screen:





So all of this leads me to think I have some sort of hardware problem that has existed from the beginning. When I bought the components, I did a LOT of research, looking for compatibility. I'm stuck at the point I've been afraid of though, building my own system, as I don't have a "system manufacturer" to go to for tech support. so I guess the questions now are:

1. What to do?

2. Is there a diagnostic tool somewhere I can download/use to try and find the problem?

3. Should I try calling some of the component manufacturers for troubleshooting tech support? Or, since I have no idea where the problem is, will I just get the answer, "sorry, you chose to build the computer on your own. Unless you can show that our component is the problem, we can't help you"?

4. Should I start trying to remove components one at a time to see if that fixes the problem? There's not too much I can think of, but I'm thinking graphics card, BD-ROM drives, and optional rear chassis fan?

5. Given that the AMD F1 socket processor was a bit "special" when released, should I be considering swapping out the mobo and processor for some current models, and see if that does the trick?

As usual, thanks in advance for input/advice

[Lex]

Sounds like your memory has a bad module Chris, that's what the informational message leads me to believe. Try some upgraded ram, see if that fixes your problem, you can also try reseating it, and even pulling one stick out and rerun your test with one stick if it will run like that. Maybe you can identify the bad one that way. That's my best suggestion.

[Chris D]

I suppose it could be an actual memory problem, Doug. Can individual memory sticks be bad? I have 4 sticks of 4GB each. I think they have to be installed in pairs, so I'd have to pull two sticks to see if the other two still work. I'm guessing 8GB would still be sufficient to run basic computer functions. There's a special "Mem OK!" button on this mobo. I don't quite understand what it does, but supposedly it allows incompatible memory to work on the mobo. I don't think it'll do anything for me, as the memory does mount and properly show up in all system lists. Who knows. Here's the mobo user manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...825.1430371540

I know one thing, this is not a software problem, or accessory hardware like a camera or something. I'm getting BSOD during initial Windows installation, before any other software is even installed, or other hardware connected. (I'm doing installation with nothing connected except mouse, keyboard, and monitor) I'm even getting BSOD when I start Windows in safe mode.

[knowledgebass]

As suggested, I would run the test again on individual sticks if possible or pairs if it requires a pair to boot. Most modern computers will be fairly resilient to non optimum configurations. If all pass, then test again in the different DIMMs. Could be the motherboard that is the problem and not the memory itself. If all modules pass and all DIMMs pass then it could be the power supply not handling the load of the system firing up. Trouble shooting computer symptoms can be incredibly frustrating. Lots of problems in software can be symptomatic of multiple hardware pieces. At least you know it's probably the memory but only systematic testing will tell you if it really is.

[Lex]

oh, absolutely individual memory sticks can be bad Chris. For an initial build, I would first start with only 2 sticks of memory, if you seat 2 sticks, and don't get the error, get the system up and running, get an operating system on it, and THEN try to add the additional 2 sticks of memory.

Like Knowledgebass said, some computers require 2 sticks to boot. That was the old standard, I am not sure about newer MBs. Also, like he said, it could be the mobo.

But I would pick 2 sticks, and try to get computer running, if it still throws the error, then try the other 2 sticks and see if it STILL throws the error or boots.

This should help isolate if it's a mem problem, or a mobo problem.

The other issue I have had with computer installs is the mobo grounding out on the case somewhere. It must be isolated from stray slivers of metal etc... if it grounds out, it may not boot at all, it could short out, it can even cause the mobo to blaze. well, electrical blaze. I had that happen once after computer had been running a long time. Eventually, the contact was made to frame and it flamed.

Of course, then there are all those little connectors, easy to get 1 position off, and throw a wrench in things. Doesn't seem to be your issue though, I don't think... You are running a mem test, it seems, so you got past the initial "post" I think! Right??? Posting is the Mobo, running a series of stuff on screen when it first boots. If it does that, you either have a mem problem or a mobo issue. I think.

Well, I don't think that is your issue. Try what we said.

Boot with 2 sticks,
if success, install OS and continue on.
Then add additional memory.

If not success,
boot with alternate 2 sticks,
if success, install OS and continue on.
Then add additional memory.

If the second step of adding additional memory produces the error, then one of those 2 sticks is bad. Hey, I guess I still got a little knowledgebase. ha.

DW

[Kevin P]

Download memtest86, burn on a CD (or I think there's a bootable USB version), and boot that and run for a while. It will give more detailed information than the Mickeysoft diagnostics.

If you happen to have an Ubuntu live CD kicking around, those usually include memtest86 in the boot menu as well.

You can also try one stick at a time, or a pair at a time, and see if the error moves with a particular stick. If it does, that stick is bad. If you have problems with all of them, either the motherboard is bad or the memory is incompatible somehow.

Whenever I build a system, or add/replace memory in a system, I usually run memtest86 for an hour or two to make sure all is well before I install an OS at all.

[Lex]

ok, my post did post, I was afraid it didn't.

[Chris D]

Thanks, fellas. MOST helpful. I'm running mentest86 now on current setup of all 4 memory sticks installed, and so far it's come up with two errors. I'll let it keep running for quite a while (is it ever done?) and then have to figure out what the errors mean.




Posting this from Tapatalk

[Chris D]

meant to post the pic if the two errors, but it just found a third so here's the current pic

[knowledgebass]

It means you have a memory problem on at least one stick and you need to run the test again in a way so you can figure out which stick(s) is (are) the problem.

[Hdale85]

Yeah just run the sticks one at a time and test each one. Not sure if the memory is new, but if not you'll likely need to replace it.

[Lex]

Whew, I opened this thread up, and it scared the hell out of me, I thought my computer had blue screened, lol. I mean it opened right with one of thsoe blue screens centered perfectly. Crazy sh*t.

What is going on now Chris? Get that memory tested yet? If it were me, I'd pick two, and run test, if I still had an error, then I'd pop in the alternate two only. Then if it runs clean, you know 1 of the 2 sticks left is bad at least, and then you can go from there...

[Chris D]

Woot! I've been testing non-stop for the last several days, and think this actually identified the problem.

- Memtest86 on memory modules 1-4, BAD with 17 errors, so I pulled out half the memory and tried again
- tested modules 1,2, BAD with 11 errors, so I swapped with other pair
- tested modules 3,4, GOOD! So I tested the bad pair individually
- tested module 1, BAD with 13 errors, so I swapped with other single module in bad pair
- tested module 2, GOOD!

So it looks like I have one single bad memory stick. These particular memory sticks are on ASUS's Qualified Vendor List for the motherboard, so there should be no other reason it wouldn't work. Corsair has a lifetime warranty, so it should be covered. Their website says to contact the seller first, so I talked to Amazon, and they want me to call Corsair direct. (which totally makes sense) I'll do that tomorrow.

While Corsair repairs or replaces the stick, instinct tells me I should do another fresh Windows install to guard against any program errors already created by the memory problem. Should I wait though, until I have all four good memory modules? Or could I do the full install and setup of everything on the machine with a single pair of memory at 8GB total, and then put in the final pair when they get here?

[Kevin P]

You can install Windows with the 8GB and then install the 2nd pair when you get them back from Corsair.

Ideally, hold off on the activation part until you get all the RAM installed (Windows gives you 30 days I think). The fewer hardware changes made post-activation, the less chance for issues in future hardware changes.

When you get the new RAM, run Memtest86 on it for a few hours before booting Windows, just to ensure all is well.

[Chris D]

Cool, will do. I just got off the phone with Corsair and did their RMA process, and they're shipping a replacement pair now in anticipation of me returning the pair that includes the bad stick.

FWIW, the full memory test sequence, using my AMD A8-3850 quad core processor on all 4 memory modules was about 10.5 hours. Full sequence on 2 modules was 9-10 hours per each pair. Full sequence on a single module was about 5.5 hours each. For each "sequence", Memtest86 told me it was complete after doing 4 series of 12 tests each. Not sure if the 4 iterations is because of the 4 processor cores. The latter tests I ran from a boot disc I made with Memtest86, and it ran v6.0 under UEFI, and gave me a notice that my system had UEFI limitations and could only test 1 processor at a time.

I also just discovered something interesting. There are actually two programs from two different companies, both called memtest86. The "original" is now owned by Passmark Software, has both free and paid versions, and is found at http://www.memtest86.com/ (that's the one I found and used) Setting up the Corsair RMA just now, they had a link to "memtest86+" which apparently is an all-free spinoff at http://memtest.org/

[aud19]

I also just discovered something interesting. There are actually two programs from two different companies, both called memtest86. The "original" is now owned by Passmark Software, has both free and paid versions, and is found at http://www.memtest86.com/ (that's the one I found and used) Setting up the Corsair RMA just now, they had a link to "memtest86+" which apparently is an all-free spinoff at http://memtest.org/

That's good to know Chris :T

[Hdale85]

Same is true for CPUz now. It used to be owned by a single company and then they sold it and now it's all over the place.

[Chris D]

So this is the PCI RAID controller, installed before adding cables. I'm learning all sorts of new things. I had no idea that you could put a PCI card in a slot, where the card didn't take up the entire slot. I was kind of unsure at first where to put it, but that slot is the only one that would have fit the card fins. Works just fine.





And this is pretty much a new finished pic of the install. You can see the PCI RAID controller at the top right, under the power supply, with the blue SATA cables running to it. Not easy to see from this 2D picture, but all the blue SATA cables are running along the side of the case closest to the camera that is currently removed, so there's nothing going through the middle of the case and messing with the airflow.

I added:
(1) 250GB SSD for the OS, which Silverstone cleverly hides in a slot at the bottom of the case under the hard drive cage, so you don't even see it.
(2) PCI RAID controller
(3) Three 4TB Caviar Red drives, for the NAS RAID array

The only thing missing from this pic is the bad pair of memory sticks. When the new ones arrive from Corsair in the next couple of days, I'll have to take the hard drive cage back out, and then put the sticks in which should be fine. Note that I added one of the new Red drives in the bottom slot, which is dual purpose for either a HDD, or a 3.5" accessory like a media card reader, accessible from the case front panel. The other two are installed at the top and bottom of the hard drive cage. Two reasons for this, first it keeps the middle of the cage free to direct airflow through the middle of the case. But with the height of the memory sticks in the motherboard and their cooling fins, they butt right up against installed hard drives. They're slightly arched on top, so this keeps the tallest part in the middle of the memory fins free.

So I downloaded the latest RAID controller card drivers, installed, set up the drives into RAID 5, yielding 8TB of array space, and everything is great. The only thing I can't figure out now is... how to access it!!! The goal is for it not only to be accessible from this computer, but a real NAS that other computers can map as a drive, and directly save file to, and access files from. Also, hold the entire iTunes library (and potential future movie files) for serving to various media components around the house. Any pointers on how I set that up? (as I mentioned, right now the array isn't even showing up in "my computer" on this PC)

But, WOOT! WOOT! All through the new fresh Windows install, drivers install, RAID configuration, software installation, Windows updates, etc, there has been ZERO BSOD so far. Praise God... it's an entirely different computer now that we figured out what the problem has been all this time.

[Kevin P]

You set up the array, right? It should show up as a drive in Disk Management, where you can create partition(s) on the array and format them as NTFS or what have you, and then it should show up with a drive letter. Once that's done, you can create share(s) to the root or to specific folders depending on your needs.

[Chris D]

A-HA! I honestly had no idea what you were talking about with "Disk Management", and that's not something the RocketRAID instructions talk anywhere about doing. Seems odd, as it's obviously a required step. But, I figured it out and got the array initialized there, and it's now showing up in My Computer as an 8TB hard drive as I expected. For some reason, it only gave me the option of NTFS, maybe because I decided to set up the entire 8TB as a single volume.

I right-clicked on it and turned on all sharing properties I could find, so hopefully I can now go to my other computers and figure out how to set them up to access it too. I do want it to mount to each computer, showing as a hard drive that the user can directly save to. It'll take me quite a while to copy all files onto the drive. Then the step after that will be having the media devices on the network be able to play media files directly from that drive. And maybe add a control input, (FLIRC?) so I could hopefully control the system for HTPC functions in the A/V system, like BD playback.

FWIW, it looks like Cyberlink recently put out PowerDVD 15, and are running a "special" this month of extra software if you buy it. Seems more expensive than I remember for previous versions at $99 for the "Ultra" (which I'd need for full 3D BD playback capability and such) and they don't give any upgrade discounts for any versions prior to 13. For now, I'm trying their 30 day free trial.

If anyone has suggestions for something I could be doing better, I'm all ears. But at this point, I think the path is fairly set.

[aud19]

http://www.videolan.org/vlc/index.html

Also, I recommend ripping (and compressing) your discs to mkv.

[Chris D]

Woot! Check that out. 21 hours to memory test the new complete PC with all 4 memory sticks but a whopping zero errors. Yay!