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  • Oneminde
    Member
    • Feb 2018
    • 91

    NAD M22 Special Edition.

    - NAD M22 Special Edition -

    I am coming at this as a happy diy hobbyist and have a question for anyone who want take on the challenge but feel obligated to mention a few things before we get to the core of the thread.

    - Disclaimer -

    This is by no means going to be a commercial endeavor, its a one mans personal journey in building an awesome class D amplifier. I do not own any rights to any idea presented or forwarded in this project and or htguide.com thread created around this project. I understand that what is presented and asked in this thread is not suited for everyone which is fine. If you don't like the idea or general approach you are free to leave and do your own thing. While replication for personal use is frowned upon it is not considered illegal as long as it is for non-commercial use and without the intent to make money on it. - End of disclaimer.
    I am by no means smarter or understand electronics better than the people at NAD or Hypex and just want to say thanks to all the engineers who worked on this project. As I say that I realize that there probably was some compromises done and the over all project goal had financial limitations in order to wrap the product in a package that did not risked costing to much. For me, things are a bit different since I basically will only pay for the components and not the brand or other engineers salary, neither do I consider myself to be wealthy but am able to invest that which is required. So with that out of the way, lets look at what the goals are.
    1. The primary goal of this project is to take the original NAD M22 (Hypex NC400) and make it live as a permanent bridge-mode amplifier x 2. Effectively using 2 x M22 as a stereo amplifier in one chassi, returning a whopping 2 x 900W (1 kHz 8 ohms 0.1 % THD).
    2. The PSU gets a separate chassis to get rid of AC noise and make room for the doubling of components.
    3. A side mission is to look over all components used and improve / replace when and if needed. Such replacement can simply to to get rid of electrolytic capacitors and use Metalized Polypropylene Capacitors or Foil Polypropylene Capacitors, Thin Film 1206 resistor etc


    Now for the core of the thread. The original M22 does not have internal bridge mode options but can be bridged using an external XLR Bridging Y‐Adaptor and using the left + terminal and right + terminal, all of this is external means to run the M22 in bridge mode.

    Connect the Positive Speaker Lead coming from your Right Speaker to the Right Channel Positive (Red) Speaker Output. Next, connect the Negative Speaker Lead coming from your speaker to the Left Channel Positive Speaker Output of the amp as shown in the picture above. The Negative (Black) speaker output must not be used in a bridged mode.
    The M22V2 comes along and offer internal bridge mode which also is using + terminals only - see image



    Moving forward my question is directed towards how to solve the x2 M22 constant bridge-mode configuration. Should I simply go for an internal wiring which mimic that of the external XLR Y-adapter and also connect the left and right positive lead to the output terminals - which would be labeled positive and negative on the outside of the amplifier ? This causes the least hassle and issues in regards to keeping the circuit as is.

    M22V2 has a 20% increase in power delivery from the PSU, this could be as simple increasing the size of the capacitor bank for increased power headroom.

    - Oneminde
  • ergo
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2005
    • 675

    #2
    There are few historic threads in this forum you might want to look through.
    All topics related to achieving the best possible music reproduction utilizing DAC?s, Digital Transports, Music Servers, NAS, PC?s, Laptops & Tablets. Information & Help with Selecting, Set-Up & Configuration of Ripping, Playback & Library Management Software for both MAC and PC.

    For the connoisseur of fine audio. Whether 2 channel or multichannel format, solid state or tube electronics, discuss it here. Also, hardware related SACD, DVD Audio, vinyl, high end speakers and audio enhancements including high end cables.

    Jon planned to use the Jensen transformers + an active stage to modify the M22. A transformer based solution for "bridge mode" might equally make sense.

    As for tweaks on the circuit - I do hope you have the know how needed. Class-D amps and switching power supplies do not lend themselves as easily to common old school tweaks. Make sure you keep the capacitor values same as things can go wrong and become unstable. Even adding too much capacitance to the power supply output might make things worse and not better in case of switching supply. Having equipment to measure and verify all is still working ok with a passive load instead of a loudspeaker would be a good idea with this type of plan. Unless you have a good source for the spare parts for your speakers.

    I have done something similar to the NAD C390DD, but the goal was not to tweak, but to make it work stable again. On that model NAD had use very crappy electrolytics of which several had lost their capacitance. So the amp did 'odd things' like not switching on from standby etc. So I decided to swap out all electrolytics beside the big power supply ones. Not an easy task in itself due to minimum of 2 layer PCB boards and SMD components all around.

    Comment

    • Oneminde
      Member
      • Feb 2018
      • 91

      #3
      I'll make a quick reply here.

      I have no comment on the transformer aspect of things since I cannot quantify the use of one - yet.

      Thank you ergo for the threads. I will most certainly take a look at them. Also, when it comes to component modes: In no way shape or form will I change any values, they will stay the same, same for position etc. The schematic will stay intact. The component upgrades are more related to the quality of performance and endurance. There are other aspects which in itself is dealing with over all distortion, but that's for another day.

      When it comes to testing, that will ofc happen on a dummy load and the amp will be analyzed.

      Comment

      • Oneminde
        Member
        • Feb 2018
        • 91

        #4
        Any particular reason why the NAD motherboard and NC400 module isn't on the same board, the NC400 is "floating" above and connected via a pin-terminal.

        Comment

        • Oneminde
          Member
          • Feb 2018
          • 91

          #5
          Done with the threads

          I think I will go for an internal bridge mode which leave the circuit pretty much intact, minus my own mods and custom solutions. I will keep the thread going from time to time when I have some updates. I am just about to start the parts list "overhauling" which will take at least 1-2 weeks as its a crucial section of the project. Until that is ready, take care.

          Comment

          • Juhazi
            Senior Member
            • May 2008
            • 239

            #6
            I wonder if you really need that extra gain and power capacity? Do you have a concert hall or auditorium to fill with sound? Take a look at THD+N graph, typical "high" home listening level uses only 0,1-10W power




            This is a review and detailed measurements of a DIY power amplifier based on Hypex NC400 amplifier modules. It was built and is on kind loan from a member. I asked him to list the parts and this is what he supplied: $980 Amp modules, SMPS, internal cables (AC, DC, and shielded input) with...
            My DIY speaker history: -74 Philips 3-way, -82 Hifi 85B, -07 Zaph L18, -08 Hifitalo AW-7, CSS125FR, -09 MarkK ER18DXT, -13 PPSL470Dayton, -13 AINOgradient, -18 Avalanche AS-1 dsp, -18 MR183w

            Comment

            • Oneminde
              Member
              • Feb 2018
              • 91

              #7
              Originally posted by Juhazi
              I wonder if you really need that extra gain and power capacity? Do you have a concert hall or auditorium to fill with sound? Take a look at THD+N graph, typical "high" home listening level uses only 0,1-10W power
              Hi Juhazi. Things aren't usually as simple as 0.1-10W. I've been meaning to properly research these things and write a document to cover all that matters in regards to watt needs and dB need, its gets fairly complex since we are not dealing with linear relationships but rather ratios, logarithmic and exponential factors. I am currently not equipped well enough to give you a proper reply but I can certainly give it a go.

              The very first relationship I want to point out is the one between the dB, loudness perception, SPL and power gain factor.



              I will also use Hans Beekhuyzen's excel sheet to show the effect of specific loudspeaker sensitivity, dB losses over distance and watt needs. Two loudspeaker sensitivity's will be used. This account for nominal (continuous) and dynamic (peak). Following the rule that doubling the distance decrease the perceived SPL by 6 dB - The watt number include 20dB of dynamic headroom which is in relationship to music. A 1kHz test tone is different in nature compared to a 1kHz musical tone. The musical tone will have harmonics and other interwoven artifacts or other tones embedded and is far more complex than a test tone.

              Ex1)
              85dB/2.83V/1m
              - A fairly low sensitive driver/loudspeaker, but not uncommon. First listening distance is 2 meters, 1 meter further away from the loudspeaker with reference to the measuring distance. We lose 6dB.

              1W = 60.5 dB nominal with 80.5 dB dynamic
              10W = 70.5 dB nominal with 90.5 dB dynamic <- we gained almost 10dB nominal for does 10W
              300W = 85.3 dB nominal with 105.3 dB dynamic <- In order to get the same nominal SPL at 2 meters as at 1 meter, we need a 300W amplifier. Note that this is 100% of that amplifier
              500W = 87.5 dB nominal with 107.5 dB dynamic <- moving from 300W to 500W we only saw gain of 2.2dB
              1000W = 90.5 dB nominal with 110.5 dB dynamic

              2 meters listening distance is not far and I will typically be much closer to 3.5 meters, so lets use 3.5 meters as the listening distance on the same loudspeaker. We have now lost 10.88dB of SPL. If we sat 4 meters away that would equal a 12dB loss.

              1W = 55.6dB nominal with 75.4 dB dynamic
              10W = 65.6 dB nominal with 85.6 dB dynamic
              300W = 80.4 dB nominal with 100 dB dynamic
              500W = 82.6 dB nominal with 102.6 dB dynamic
              1000W = 85.6 dB nominal with 105.6 dB dynamic <- we need 1000W/chn to reach the same dB at 3.5 meter compared to 1 meter.

              If we now compare the same loudspeaker at 2m vs 3.5m we can see that our 300W/chn amplifier return 85.3 dB vs 80.4 dB - That is a loss of -4.9 dB SPL moving 1.5 meters, which is equal to roughly -40% loudness or perceived volume gain. Looking at the chart I included, 6 dB is equal to 2 times the SPL and just 1.51 times loudness (what I call perceived volume gain). Also, dynamic peaks can last just a few milliseconds so is very short in time duration and we typically have no problem with that being 110-120db. So while it looks very loud on paper, in reality its not as bad compared to say 110-120 dB nominal.

              Ex2)
              89dB/2.83V/1m
              - For home HiFi I would consider this I fairly good sensitivity - again, first at 2m then at 3.5m as with the first loudspeaker.

              1W = 64.5 dB nominal with 84.5 dB dynamic
              10W = 74.5 dB nominal with 94.5 dB dynamic
              300W = 89.5 dB nominal with 109.5 dB dynamic <- we need the 300W/chn amp to have the same dB level as at 1 meter.
              500W = 91.5 dB nominal with 111.5 dB dynamic
              1000W = 94.5 dB nominal with 114. dB dynamic

              vs

              1W = 59.6 dB nominal and 79.6 dB dynamic
              10W = 69.6 dB nominal and 89.6 dB dynamic
              300W = 84.4 dB nominal and 104.4 dB dynamic
              500W = 86.6 dB nominal and 106.6 dB dynamic
              1000W = 89.6 dB nominal and 109.6 dB dynamic <- we need the 1000W/chn amp to reach the same dB level as at 1 meter.

              PS: Does watt numbers indicate need for a specific dB level and listening distance. There is also so called room gain which can be in the order of +6 dB or more, but I've been in rooms that actually have a negative dB value or worse, have frequency regions where you can measure severe dips in the 20-250Hz region. This is really bad since you want to compensate by turning up the volume to gain back the losses and now the top end is too loud... yeah, room acoustics has to be added to this as well.

              Now we pare it with a dB chart to get a sense of the levels. There is also dB and time duration relationship if one want to look that up.



              Another thing to consider is the Fletcher Munson Curve and if we compare that to how the impedance curve of a loudspeaker & driver, we can see that it is not linear, with that I mean: The energy needed for a 1kHz vs 50Hz tone, nominal or dynamic, is going to be very different. We know that as we go down in hertz the required watt is a exponential relationship since the impedance goes up.



              How many watts do I need? with link to the excel sheet
              How much power should your amplifier have to properly drive your speakers? (subtitled in English and Dutch - Nederlands ondertiteld).Excell sheet: copy the l...


              If you really want to dig deep into the subject, I really recommend checking out the material available here, its a good source.
              Calculator calculation conversion of acoustic formulas sound calculations audio system studio electro engineering electronics sound recording useful stuff microphone formula English audio formulas electronics audio engineering physics free thd site map online education sound calcs calculations energy study sound acoustics noise control vibration - Eberhard Sengpiel sengpielaudio


              Conclusion:
              Your comment "typical "high" home listening level uses only 0,1-10W power" does not paint the whole picture, it is far to complex. What I can say is that I listen to music between 75-90 dB (nominal) at any distance, so if I my dB listening window will be dynamic in relationship to the distance I sit at and also the music I listen to. Further we have the fact that you most certainly do not want to be at 100% of your amplifiers capacity all the time, you want what is known as headroom. The 80/20 rule can be a good spot to be at. Which mean that if you need on average 300W/chn that becomes (300 x 1.20) = 360W/chn. If you want a larger headroom the "extra" watt goes up.

              So all in all, the 900W/chn (at 1 kHz 8 ohms 0.1% THD) M22se amp isn't so crazy after all. I am not saying I need 900W/chn constantly rather that 900W/chn gives me a good reach in terms of dynamic power and a good amount of watt headroom, it also allow me to stay fairly safe from clipping. I hope this shed some light on the matter.

              Comment

              • Oneminde
                Member
                • Feb 2018
                • 91

                #8
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                • Oneminde
                  Member
                  • Feb 2018
                  • 91

                  #9
                  First version.

                  Comment

                  • Oneminde
                    Member
                    • Feb 2018
                    • 91

                    #10
                    Click image for larger version

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                    • tktran
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2005
                      • 658

                      #11
                      Here’s a test you can do at home, with your speakers, your music, and your amplifier, to determine how much power you really need:

                      If you have trouble understanding this test, or you have questions, please read: TEST FAQ Update July 3rd 2012: Although the title of the thread contains the word "test" this is better thought of a s a survey or poll. The word "test" has caused a good bit of confusion and misunderstanding. The...


                      Originally posted by Oneminde
                      Hi Juhazi. Things aren't usually as simple as 0.1-10W. I've been meaning to properly research these things and write a document to cover all that matters in regards to watt needs and dB need, its gets fairly complex since we are not dealing with linear relationships but rather ratios, logarithmic and exponential factors. I am currently not equipped well enough to give you a proper reply but I can certainly give it a go.

                      The very first relationship I want to point out is the one between the dB, loudness perception, SPL and power gain factor.



                      I will also use Hans Beekhuyzen's excel sheet to show the effect of specific loudspeaker sensitivity, dB losses over distance and watt needs. Two loudspeaker sensitivity's will be used. This account for nominal (continuous) and dynamic (peak). Following the rule that doubling the distance decrease the perceived SPL by 6 dB - The watt number include 20dB of dynamic headroom which is in relationship to music. A 1kHz test tone is different in nature compared to a 1kHz musical tone. The musical tone will have harmonics and other interwoven artifacts or other tones embedded and is far more complex than a test tone.

                      Ex1)
                      85dB/2.83V/1m
                      - A fairly low sensitive driver/loudspeaker, but not uncommon. First listening distance is 2 meters, 1 meter further away from the loudspeaker with reference to the measuring distance. We lose 6dB.

                      1W = 60.5 dB nominal with 80.5 dB dynamic
                      10W = 70.5 dB nominal with 90.5 dB dynamic <- we gained almost 10dB nominal for does 10W
                      300W = 85.3 dB nominal with 105.3 dB dynamic <- In order to get the same nominal SPL at 2 meters as at 1 meter, we need a 300W amplifier. Note that this is 100% of that amplifier
                      500W = 87.5 dB nominal with 107.5 dB dynamic <- moving from 300W to 500W we only saw gain of 2.2dB
                      1000W = 90.5 dB nominal with 110.5 dB dynamic

                      2 meters listening distance is not far and I will typically be much closer to 3.5 meters, so lets use 3.5 meters as the listening distance on the same loudspeaker. We have now lost 10.88dB of SPL. If we sat 4 meters away that would equal a 12dB loss.

                      1W = 55.6dB nominal with 75.4 dB dynamic
                      10W = 65.6 dB nominal with 85.6 dB dynamic
                      300W = 80.4 dB nominal with 100 dB dynamic
                      500W = 82.6 dB nominal with 102.6 dB dynamic
                      1000W = 85.6 dB nominal with 105.6 dB dynamic <- we need 1000W/chn to reach the same dB at 3.5 meter compared to 1 meter.

                      If we now compare the same loudspeaker at 2m vs 3.5m we can see that our 300W/chn amplifier return 85.3 dB vs 80.4 dB - That is a loss of -4.9 dB SPL moving 1.5 meters, which is equal to roughly -40% loudness or perceived volume gain. Looking at the chart I included, 6 dB is equal to 2 times the SPL and just 1.51 times loudness (what I call perceived volume gain). Also, dynamic peaks can last just a few milliseconds so is very short in time duration and we typically have no problem with that being 110-120db. So while it looks very loud on paper, in reality its not as bad compared to say 110-120 dB nominal.

                      Ex2)
                      89dB/2.83V/1m
                      - For home HiFi I would consider this I fairly good sensitivity - again, first at 2m then at 3.5m as with the first loudspeaker.

                      1W = 64.5 dB nominal with 84.5 dB dynamic
                      10W = 74.5 dB nominal with 94.5 dB dynamic
                      300W = 89.5 dB nominal with 109.5 dB dynamic <- we need the 300W/chn amp to have the same dB level as at 1 meter.
                      500W = 91.5 dB nominal with 111.5 dB dynamic
                      1000W = 94.5 dB nominal with 114. dB dynamic

                      vs

                      1W = 59.6 dB nominal and 79.6 dB dynamic
                      10W = 69.6 dB nominal and 89.6 dB dynamic
                      300W = 84.4 dB nominal and 104.4 dB dynamic
                      500W = 86.6 dB nominal and 106.6 dB dynamic
                      1000W = 89.6 dB nominal and 109.6 dB dynamic <- we need the 1000W/chn amp to reach the same dB level as at 1 meter.

                      PS: Does watt numbers indicate need for a specific dB level and listening distance. There is also so called room gain which can be in the order of +6 dB or more, but I've been in rooms that actually have a negative dB value or worse, have frequency regions where you can measure severe dips in the 20-250Hz region. This is really bad since you want to compensate by turning up the volume to gain back the losses and now the top end is too loud... yeah, room acoustics has to be added to this as well.

                      Now we pare it with a dB chart to get a sense of the levels. There is also dB and time duration relationship if one want to look that up.



                      Another thing to consider is the Fletcher Munson Curve and if we compare that to how the impedance curve of a loudspeaker & driver, we can see that it is not linear, with that I mean: The energy needed for a 1kHz vs 50Hz tone, nominal or dynamic, is going to be very different. We know that as we go down in hertz the required watt is a exponential relationship since the impedance goes up.



                      How many watts do I need? with link to the excel sheet
                      How much power should your amplifier have to properly drive your speakers? (subtitled in English and Dutch - Nederlands ondertiteld).Excell sheet: copy the l...


                      If you really want to dig deep into the subject, I really recommend checking out the material available here, its a good source.
                      Calculator calculation conversion of acoustic formulas sound calculations audio system studio electro engineering electronics sound recording useful stuff microphone formula English audio formulas electronics audio engineering physics free thd site map online education sound calcs calculations energy study sound acoustics noise control vibration - Eberhard Sengpiel sengpielaudio


                      Conclusion:
                      Your comment "typical "high" home listening level uses only 0,1-10W power" does not paint the whole picture, it is far to complex. What I can say is that I listen to music between 75-90 dB (nominal) at any distance, so if I my dB listening window will be dynamic in relationship to the distance I sit at and also the music I listen to. Further we have the fact that you most certainly do not want to be at 100% of your amplifiers capacity all the time, you want what is known as headroom. The 80/20 rule can be a good spot to be at. Which mean that if you need on average 300W/chn that becomes (300 x 1.20) = 360W/chn. If you want a larger headroom the "extra" watt goes up.

                      So all in all, the 900W/chn (at 1 kHz 8 ohms 0.1% THD) M22se amp isn't so crazy after all. I am not saying I need 900W/chn constantly rather that 900W/chn gives me a good reach in terms of dynamic power and a good amount of watt headroom, it also allow me to stay fairly safe from clipping. I hope this shed some light on the matter.

                      Comment

                      • Oneminde
                        Member
                        • Feb 2018
                        • 91

                        #12
                        Will go over the thread / test procedure. Things like that is always fun do to.

                        Comment

                        • ergo
                          Senior Member
                          • Mar 2005
                          • 675

                          #13
                          While the whole power need topic has many variables there are also some practical aspects that explain why many of us are perfectly happy also with 80 or 100W amplifier on 86dBSPL/1m sensitive speakers.

                          The actual SPL drop in living room size listening rooms does not follow the inverse square law all the way to 3.5m
                          Most of the music in Streaming or CD-s will have less (and often much less) than 20dB dynamic range. So the need for such high headroom for peaks is rare. Perhaps only if one likes classical pieces with big orchestra etc.

                          Check here

                          If many of the albums you listen are in that DR >20 group then sure, it makes sense to tune your setup to that direction.

                          I'm also listening to NCore NC500MP OEM - ie 500W amps with my Wavecor Ardent's, but not really because I believe I would need that amount of power, but rather because I found a good enough deal with those to get me into the NCore user group. I did contemplate to buy a used NAD M22 at the time too, but at 2x the cost decided against that plan.

                          Image from here
                          Click image for larger version

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                          • Oneminde
                            Member
                            • Feb 2018
                            • 91

                            #14
                            Acoustics is complex. There will always be a portion of objective science and a big portion of subjective values or references, what matters is that one find the "perfect" combo for oneself. One argument for the M22se is instead of going at it from a point where everything is calculated and measured to the tiniest value, I here throw some extra energy at it, really make sure I never run into a bottle neck. Its not like the amp suffer because I only use a portion of what it can deliver and I welcome your opinion... I do.

                            I can take an example on the difference of room acoustic tuning. I was listening to a pair of B&W 804D3 and the room was over damped, it absorbed too much of the 100-250Hz region and the room itself sounded claustrophobic. We ended up talking more about the room instead of the loudspeakers and that point I forwarded to him was that while too much reflected and boosted low end is horrible (sounds muddy), too much damping is equally horrible. The brain use acoustical reflection to judge the space its in and distance to objects. If you completely remove these acoustical effects, what is left is a tiny "closet" which is uncomfortable. There is a miss match between what the eye see and what the brain "hear". Its odd that when people try to correct the bad portion of room reflection or room gain, they over do it and rely too much on objective science and measurement data. The best instrument and what matters in the end is how the brain or "you" sense the environment, and ofc that will include some personal subjective portions which is totally fine and as it should be. Its like the difference when I audition a set of loudspeakers and I can hear stuff up to 18.4kHz and the other guy has his threshold at 12lHz, we are going to hear things differently and judge accordingly. So in does cases, either one is more correct or we agree to disagree and no hard feelings - The room need some reflection without being echo in nature, just leave some reflection so that there is some room size info left for the brain to orient itself.

                            Thanks for the DR>20 link, can be valuable.

                            How's the Ardent loudspeakers ???

                            Comment

                            • ergo
                              Senior Member
                              • Mar 2005
                              • 675

                              #15
                              Wavecor Ardents are still going great. I'm in process of building an upgraded part quality xover for mid and tweeter, but ran into self induced delay. I had forgotten to order enough caps (cant do simple math it seems), so now a new order is on it's way to fill the gap.
                              The NCore NC500MP-s I have are driving the Ardents while the NAD C390DD mentioned above is driving my pair of Minervas in my study. From power hungriness point of view the revers would make sense, but as NCore does outperform the C390DD...

                              Comment

                              • Oneminde
                                Member
                                • Feb 2018
                                • 91

                                #16
                                Changing cap and inductors for better quality as in lower ESR etc ?

                                I've listened to the NAD C388 which is also based on the NC400 - yeah, NAD loves these - and found it to have great presence, clarity, details and "umph" - soundstage should be sufficient as well. Someone simply has to be among the best class D designer and while it can be argued who that actually is, the differences between them are slim. Take Pascal which is featured in Mytek Brooklyn Amp or the THX AAA class D used in Benchmark AHB2. One interesting aspect of this is that if one spend some time reading reviews and take part of others experience and opinions about these amps, especially M22 vs AHB2, I've encounter several statements that favor M22 / NC400 over AHB2, even if AHB2 on paper is a better amplifier. And well ... NAD shared the circuit which allow me do stuff with that material so the choice is very simple here

                                I plan on using the NC400 as part of an active system further down the road with the option of FirstWatt class A for the top-end and NC400 for the low end, but that is a different project altogether.

                                Btw, googled the NC500 and there we have the rectangular board which is similar to the NC400 which NAD use and similar pin-out structure. I was suspicious about why NAD didn't incorporate the module into the motherboard, but I guess it would be too costly to do so (license) and so they buy the modules - custom manufactured for NAD - which is simply less expensive of an ordeal.

                                Comment

                                • Oneminde
                                  Member
                                  • Feb 2018
                                  • 91

                                  #17
                                  Since this thread will act as my build blog because why not, today is the day I start researching which components I will end up with. The schematic itself will not change, the only things that changes are components I feel can be better. Components are a big part of the products total distortion figure and so great care must be spent here.

                                  I am in no way saying Hypex and NAD made bad decisions, what I am saying is there is room for improvements and since I can follow different rules here in terms of cost, I am very free to choose what I desire. I will present my choices and explain a bit of why so that anyone who is following or is generally interest can get an insight. I've not set a time frame for this portion but assume 2 weeks or so.

                                  There is finally another topic I want to forward and that is the fact that I cannot build this amp during 2019 and will spend this year designing everything. I have fairly high demands and I want to have fun doing so. Meaning I will probably commence the start either very late this year or early 2020. That is how far I have come in the planing stage.

                                  Comment

                                  • Oneminde
                                    Member
                                    • Feb 2018
                                    • 91

                                    #18
                                    There is not an official diyaudio.com thread if you want to follow the project over there.

                                    - Disclaimer - This is by no means going to be a commercial endeavor, its a one mans personal journey in building an awesome class D amplifier. I do not own any rights to any idea presented or forwarded in this project and or on diyaudio.com thread created around this project. I understand...

                                    Comment

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