Wow, guys, I can't believe the time has finally come! Thanks to a very generous DIYer who built and shipped me some cabinets, I was able to measure, sim, and tweak a crossover for a full-fledged 3-way using the HiVi M-series woofers and Dayton ND28F (and SB 29RDCN) tweeters.
The crossover shares a similar topology to the Swope Center Channel, but the values are very different. I adjusted the BSC as well as changed the overall voicing of the speaker.
The cabinets provided to me were sealed, so obviously I know they integrate well with a sub. But I also know that most people would want to build this speaker vented. So that's the model I'm providing. The cabinet design I'm showing here uses 3/4" stock. The chamber for the M5A is about 4.5 Liters, and the chamber for the woofers is somewhere around 58 Liters, give or take bracing. And yes, it's a big cabinet and it WILL need bracing. If it were me, I'd probably just rip some 3" strips and screw those into the walls, tying them together. A more patient/competent builder would probably use full-length "windowpane" braces. The woofer cabinet is tuned to around 40 Hz. I think it would look coolest with a 3" Precision Port, so I plugged the values into their calculator and it said the flared port would need to be 4.75" long. The inside cabinet walls should be lined with some sort of damping foam (eg: eggcrate), and the mid chamber should be stuffed full of polyfil.
The crossover shares a similar topology to the Swope Center Channel, but the values are very different. I adjusted the BSC as well as changed the overall voicing of the speaker.
The cabinets provided to me were sealed, so obviously I know they integrate well with a sub. But I also know that most people would want to build this speaker vented. So that's the model I'm providing. The cabinet design I'm showing here uses 3/4" stock. The chamber for the M5A is about 4.5 Liters, and the chamber for the woofers is somewhere around 58 Liters, give or take bracing. And yes, it's a big cabinet and it WILL need bracing. If it were me, I'd probably just rip some 3" strips and screw those into the walls, tying them together. A more patient/competent builder would probably use full-length "windowpane" braces. The woofer cabinet is tuned to around 40 Hz. I think it would look coolest with a 3" Precision Port, so I plugged the values into their calculator and it said the flared port would need to be 4.75" long. The inside cabinet walls should be lined with some sort of damping foam (eg: eggcrate), and the mid chamber should be stuffed full of polyfil.
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