Rolex

Who makes really good binding posts that are not ridiculously expensive? I'm building a pair of stand mount speakers right now. I'm putting a lot of effort into the veneer, the finish, and the level of detail to get what I want. I've looked at numerous different binding posts before but none have made me happy.

This is primarily for looks, as I think most binding posts do a similar job at conducting electricity. Cardas makes some for Kharma that look sweet, and do a fantastic job at clamping down on wire, but I don't think they are available to the DIY community. (atleast not in their new form)

In the past I have used the dayton binding posts with the dayton mounting plate. Those are fine, but I'd like to find something new. Mabye it requires a mounting plate, maybe it doesn't. Either way is fine.

WBT has some nice stuff, but they are WAY overpriced in my opinion.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Rolex

This is what I have used before... not bad, I would just like to try something different.

TacoD

Those look like WBT clone's to me. I think that are the cheapest (nice looking) alternatives.

Maybe something from Eichmann?



The best stuff I've used is from Mundorf, but that's even more expensive than WBT.

Xander

I'm a huge fan of the other Dayton ones, the metal ones that come in a couple finishes...here is my favorite:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...number=091-1247

They are simplistic, but I happen to like very simplistic/modern looks.

I guess the only down side is that you can short them accidentily if you're not careful.

Rolex

Xander, I'm assuming you have used these before? If so, how do you tighten them down enough so there is no chance of them coming loose when tightening down speaker wire?

The nice thing about the daytons I've been using is that they have a notch in the binding post plate. It's real easy to tighten with no chance of movement.

Any advice there? Thanks.

PS. I do like the looks of them.

cobblepots

I've used those Daytons.

I tapped them into place and the tightened down one of the nuts they provide onto the back of the cabinent. Shouldn't be a problem.

LoopinFool

Madisound also has a large selection of binding posts. I have not built any speakers yet, but I have visited their shop and handled the premium bi-wire terminal cups. I've heard people here comment that it's really nice to bi-wire them internally and have the option to bi-amp, bi-wire, or single-wire (with the straps).

Their selection of terminal cups can be found here:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/in...p?cPath=404_120

The Bennic binding posts (look similar to those nice PE posts):
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/in...ath=404_119_374

A link to all binding posts:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/in...p?cPath=404_119

- LoopinFool

Xander

Yes, I've used them on 3 speakers I've built. I drill a small (1/4" I believe, but just smaller than the ridged diameter on the shaft) hole in the speaker and use a mallet to pound the binding post in. Make sure it's the right orientation! (the hole facing vertical). Then, like already mentioned, there is a nut you tighten down from inside the enclosure. You can grab the post with a wrench too, to get the nut super tight. There is no way it will come loose from tightening the post with your fingers now. Unless you are the Hulk.

Paul H

These are plain looking, but well made and priced very well. I've used them for a couple of projects:
http://www.solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_cata...u2=2&niveau3=43

Rolex

the other issue i have had with these type is that if you tighten them too much, they can start to dent the back of the cabinet. I may have to give hem a try again.

---k---

I used the Supra's from Madisound in my Khans. They are like $40/pr (or were) and all copper. All copper should be a benefit. They weight like 5x as much as the Dayton's in my center.

__________________
-Ryan
The Sietecerocero Project! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
My CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
My CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center
My CJD In-Khan-Neatos - A Dayton RS180/RS150/RS28 In/On Wall MTW

Dougie085

I recently got some of the fully isolated PE binding posts and love them. They are quite nice.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...tnumber=091-632
As I find with all PE connectors they look much better in person.

eyekode

I have used:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...number=091-1250
And:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...number=091-1245

Neither are touchless. But both work fine and are easy to install. For any like these use 3/4" spacing between them. That way if you want to bi-wire later (or up front) you can use "normal" dual banana plugs.

I have also used:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...tnumber=260-304
Theses are cheap but really convenient.

I think everything I build from now on out will be bi-wired. Not to use two amplifiers but to aid in crossover development.

I think my next build I will switch to Speakon connectors:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...tnumber=092-053
Or for a 3-way:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...tnumber=092-069

They may not look as sexy but I believe they are a superior connector in most every way.

Quwiksilver

Tellurium Copper for 320% greater conductivity!!!

I always thought cups looked kinda cool:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/in...p?cPath=404_120

A bit awkward with banana plugs though.

technimac

http://www.apexjr.com/images/5WAY_BPOSTS_GOLD_CLEAR.JPG

__________________
"While we're at it" - the four most dangerous words in Home Improvement

Rolex

If you'll notice the picture I posted above, those are the same binding posts I have been using. They are fine, I just want to try something new. And would like a smaller binding post plate. There is no reason for that plate to be 4"x4". I'm thinking of having some custom plates fabricated.

Personally, I really do not like the look of terminal cups. They just look really cheap to me.

Thanks for all your responses.

Rolex

Ryan,
Are these the ones?

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=1235

If so, did you use a binding post plate?

Dougie085

Oh haha I missed that sorry I recently put some Vampire binding posts on an amp a friend and I built and they were quite nice. Not fully shielded though like the Daytons.

http://www.vampirewire.com/pc-48-16-bp15hex.aspx

You can find them cheaper so they really aren't crazy expensive. They really were rather nice and just had a solid feel to them.

---k---

Yes. Those are the ones I used. I used them with a PE mounting plate. I thought it looked nice.

I'm not saying that they will sound better than the PE ones. I don't know. But they are nice, heavy and supposedly all copper (compared to brass like most). CJD recommends them, which is good enough for me.

But, I did use the Apex Jr. ones for the center channel and have some PE ones for the rears.

__________________
-Ryan
The Sietecerocero Project! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
My CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
My CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center
My CJD In-Khan-Neatos - A Dayton RS180/RS150/RS28 In/On Wall MTW

Xander

That's what spades are for.

But I agree with the OP. I think terminal cups, whether square or round, look rather cheap.

Dougie085

I've always thought terminal cups look cheap. I have not put them on any of my speakers and I never will.

---k---

You're making me feel self-conscious. My subs all use terminal cups. The round ones are real easy to cut a hole for and fit in.

__________________
-Ryan
The Sietecerocero Project! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
My CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
My CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center
My CJD In-Khan-Neatos - A Dayton RS180/RS150/RS28 In/On Wall MTW

Dougie085

Well I mean its really personal preference. If you feel they are good enough of you prefer them then that's fine The binding posts are real easy as well. I just use a 5/8" hole drill bit and mark the binding post plate holes and drill a hole for each spot. Then you just wire it up and screw it down. But regardless it really is all about personal preference.

cotdt

Das goot!

tf1216

For those that use the Speakon connectors, do you have to terminate your own speaker cables to accomodate the connectors? Is it possible to use speakon connectors that will allow for one or two channels to power the speaker?

For the binding post guys, are you picky about which banana plugs you use?

tf1216

What is the difference besides the price?

http://www.soniccraft.com/products/...st/eichmann.htm
and
http://www.vhaudio.com/connectors-s...ichmannCablePod

---k---

looks the same to me.

not sure if the funky design is any better.

__________________
-Ryan
The Sietecerocero Project! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
My CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
My CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center
My CJD In-Khan-Neatos - A Dayton RS180/RS150/RS28 In/On Wall MTW

jk@home

My fav are the Cardas Patented posts. Minimal metal, easy to install, lots of metal choices. Not your usually audio Bing-Bing, but a very good design. And not that expensive either. I've installed them on 3 Aragon amps and a pair of Thiel speakers.

Uses a center mounting bolt, which can be replaced with any length, picked up at your favorite industrial supply house. If one wants to go further, the mounting bolt can be replace by a stainless variety, if you feel that would make a difference. They also now offer a plate assembly.

http://www.cardas.com/content.php?a...d+Binding+Posts

If using these, get the Audioquest square spade connects that have the oversize center hole. Once the spade is fit over the metal post, and the knob assembly is installed , the spades won't slip out.

http://www.musicdirect.com/product/72734

Rolex

Those cardas binding posts are nice, but I can't get over how much better the new style looks like Kharma is currently using:

http://www.kharma.com/_images/downl...i/exq_mn_05.jpg

jk@home

Yes, they are definitely more bing-bingie I'm assuming they are an upgraded version of the patented posts?

Maybe you could email Cardas and see when they will be available for retail. If not anytime soon, they do offer custom knobs to go with the original design.

I like the way they color coded the terminals, the old design uses "+" and "-", plays hell on an old guy's eyes, like mine.