---k---

There seems to be an explosion of DIY sub threads. Usually the recommendation is to find someone elses, and copy it. I think this is a great advice, and I would like to make it easier for people to find subs to copy. I would like to create a thread, where everyone can post ONE (or TWO?) pictures of thier sub, a few basic facts, a link to their design thread if they had one, and links to other pictures. Try and use the same format. I would like there to be NO QUESTIONS in the thread. This way it is easy to skim through and get ideas. Then, someone can start their own design thread with, "I would like to build a sub similar to ThomasW's Tubezilla as shown in the Subwoofer Showcase thread. But I have these questions...."

I'll get us started:

My Twins:




Design Thread: http://htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=16774

Design: Sealed
Enclosure: 19"wide x 24.5"high x 20"deep , 3/4"MDF+1/2"MDF sides, 2" front baffle. One window-style brace.
Driver: Sound Splinter RL-P15 2ohm
Amp: 450W/ch
EQ: Behringer 1124P (BFD)
Total Cost: $900 for both

Model: Unibox Model Graphs
Measurements: At my chair , At off-center chairs
Prior speaker/sub construction experance level( 1- 10): 0


Summary:
I'm really happy with how these turned out. They were pretty easy to build. I still need to get the final coat of paint on them. They sound pretty good to me, but I don't really have a good referance point. They have a lots of power and can make my ears hurt pretty bad. No boomyness at all. If I ever need more output, I can always add more amp, because right now my amp is not near the limit of the driver. I think my design thread has all the information needed to copy these and explains every decision I made.




Again, please NO QUESTIONS here so this stays a Sub Showcase. If you have any questions about my subs, I'll be happy to answer them and you can post them in my design thread. Also, lets keep this as clean as possible, and not have all the "looks good" replys. -Thanks[IMG]

__________________
-Ryan
The Sietecerocero Project! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
My CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
My CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center
My CJD In-Khan-Neatos - A Dayton RS180/RS150/RS28 In/On Wall MTW

KeithM

It's the best picture I can find, still needs to be painted, and it's a dayton 1200, perfect for my viewing. I can't lift it because it weighs so much. I'll be building a second one soon. The thing is 18.5 x 18 x 51.5 heavily braced MDF, so I'd expect it to be heavy.
The other subwoofer is an SVS, the "monsterous subs", just to give a comparison.

cjd

Sealed Tumult (though not one of the ones on Adire's site now), ~2.5cu/ft. Powered by an ADA1200 amp.

soundbite

Design: Aussie Adrian Mack - Peerless 10"XLS, 2PR@600g/ea, Parts Express 250w plate w/eq ~ 3.5dB @ 23Hz with a Q of 1.5, (R23=24K and
R24=220K. )
Enclosure: 15"x15"x20" exterior, ~ 30 liter net internal, all sides sandwich glue-up equals 1.5"MDF plus 1/4" oak ply exterior, solid oak roundover corner trim, danish oil fruitwood finish.

Summary: Nice little piggie, can't possibly expect more from a 10" ... most sincerely deep, tight, musical and all that, ... but now, it's like so three years ago (new sub itch) ... and I confess a little clipping during extremely loud Flight of the Phoenix crash scene (what's up with the LFE on that one, eh?)- I know, I know, I'm going to hell for my abusive behaviors.

Recently picked up the PE 12" HF and 500W amp. Sealed or ported ? - damn, this life has too many hard choices.

soundbite

Design: Peggy Sue , Tangband 6.5" subwoofer, downfire w/16"x2" port in ~12 liter net
Enclosure: external 10"x10"x14-3/4" (8.5x8.5x12.5 internal) - 3/4" MDF, except 1.5" baffle, raised 4" on mortised hardwood dowels or "pegs", texture spray paint
Amp: Keiga KG3100 2.1 plate amp

Summary: Built 2 of these to mate with John Krutke Audax-Minis for my kids, but as it turns out - they're so unworthy (the kids , not the systems) that I'm using one for my bedroom TV and the other as my shop system with satellite radio. Surprisingly capable for these less critical applications at a very low relative cost for a complete amplified system. I consider them my boom-box alternatives - very listenable and portable - just plug in a source. I think the TB 6.5sub specs/model # may have changed slightly since 2004.

wrz0170

Design Thread: Here
Design: Sealed
Enclosure: 18" x 18" x 18 (w/o spikes)
Driver: Dayton 12" RSS315HF
Amp: Dayton, H500w amp, HPSA500
EQ:
Total Cost: + or - $400 (includes driver, amp,paint, MDF and spikes)

Model:: Zaph Audio
Measurements: On my couch, 24~25hz and it dropped dead at about 130hz. + or -. Using Digital Video Essentials
Prior speaker/sub construction experance level( 1- 10): 0


Summary:
This was my very first undertaking in the DIY speaker realm. It was my first stop to replace my dreaded "Home Theater in a Box". My conclusion so far is that this project has exceeded my expecatations in looks and listening. I even got the coveted Spousal Approval Factor when she said "wow" after listening to War of the Worlds. For the first time, I can actually hear the highs and lows of the bass. Very clean. By way of comparison to my old JBL sub, the old sub was harsh, one dimensional noise like that of a cow.

My first, DIY speaker experience was extremely gratifying and an enjoyable. A subwoofer is very easy project to take on and I encourage anyone who is thinking about it to give it a try.

Construction Notes:
I modeled the sub after the one here at Zaph Audio. I chose it because even at 18" cube, it was relatively small and it was already a proven design.

The cabinet was built using 3/4" MDF using 45deg miter cuts for the joinery. It was put together using Titebond II wood glue. No screws were used for assembly. I would also suggest using strap clamps as it makes construction of boxes a whole lot easier and joints tighter.

The holes were routed out using the Jasper circle jig. An absolute must have. I would also suggest any form of dust control you can get your hands on. MDF is extremely dusty and messy. I used thin weather stripping between the driver and cabinet for a good seal. I also used some stuffing between the braces and around the area of the amp.

For the finish, I chamfered all the corners. The painting was done by a good friend of mine who is a painter by trade. He did a masterful job. He filled in the minor gaps with some wood putty, smoothed it out. He then used about two coats of sanding sealer to seal up the MDF. It's very porous and soaks it up. Two base coats of a flat black was applied. The final finish was 2 coats of black textured paint (found at most home improvement stores). Thanks Tony!

cbj

Design Thread: with additional pictures here

Design: Sealed with about 80l
Enclosure: 19.5"wide x 23.5"high x 19.5"deep w/o spikes, 1.5" MDF all around, 2.25" front baffle. 125 lbs each.
Driver: Sound Splinter RL-P15 2ohm
Amp: Nady XA-2100 840W/ch
EQ: Behringer 1124P (BFD)
Total Cost: $1150 for both
Measurements: here
Prior speaker/sub construction experance level( 1- 10): 0

Subs Stacked in the Corner


Summary:
A very good first time DIY experience, but boy are they heavy. The finish is truck bed liner. Some day I will make the grills but I am in no rush for now.

SteveL

My Boys:




Design Thread: None. Asked a few questions, read CIB; that was about it.

Design: Infinite Baffle
Enclosure: 15' 6" wide x 38"high x 38"deep , 2 Layers 3/4" 7-ply baltic birch, 1 layer 3/4" Plytanium, 1 layer 3/4" MDF, all glued and screwed to a 2x4 frame with 12" centered studs, ladder bracing, and lots more glue and screws.
Driver: 4x Ascendant Audio Avalanche 18" XBL^2
Amp: Crest CA-12 Amp, running 2-ohm mono ~ 2000 watts (I sold my CA-18 and bought a CA-12 - the 18 was too much power)
EQ: Behringer 1124P (BFD)
Total Cost: $1175 for drivers, shipped; $1000 for amp; $600 on wood

Model: N/A - just started building (the beauty of IB...) My "baffle" is the rest of the basement (60' x 15' x 9')
Prior speaker/sub construction experance level( 1- 10): 0

Sub Picture #3
Sub Picture #4
Sub Picture #5

Summary:
This set-up scares me. It's way too much for my room/house. I can barely run the amp at all - it's 2 clicks above "off," and it's still cracking the walls upstairs. Room has 5/8" drywall, and I'm thinking about adding a second layer to help trap the sound. Sound quality is superb - clean, accurate, and very good for movies. The Behringer helped tame the subs somewhat, but I'd benefit from really spending time calibrating the DSP... I don't have any PCs to use for analyzing sub curves though (I'm all Mac)....

In Picture #5, I'm sitting inside the enclosure - you can see my head above the enclosure. I was wiring the subs (8ga wire). Amp has its own 30A circuit.

__________________
No, that's not me in my avatar.

Joe L.

Design/Construction Thread: construction thread My sub is a combination of several other designs.

I used a 15" Adire Tempest driver in my DIY sonosub. To assist in the use of their drivers, Adire had available on their site a demo version of LSpcad with their drivers loaded into the driver database. I downloaded and used that program to verify a 260 liter design found in one of the links I found on the web. (not sure if the LspCAD download is still available as Adire no longer sells directly to the DIY market but instead sells through dealers.)

Once I decided on the 260 L internal volume and port tuning of the enclosure, I used the sonosub calculator to calculate the length of my 18 inch inside diameter sonotube needed. This length took into consideration the size and volume of the end-caps, driver, and port tube. All told, I think my sonotube was about 66 3/4 inches long.

I used 4 inch pipes to support the top and bottom plates of my sub. Add 8 inches height for the pipes, 1 1/2 inches for the top and bottom plates, about another inch for the length of threaded rods extending through the bottom plate (on which I tightened two nuts and their washers/lockwashers) and you get the total height.

So, all told, 66 3/4 + 8 + 1 1/2 + 1 = a 77 1/4 inches tall subwoofer.

Design: Ported, tuned to just under 17 Hz
Enclosure: 260L 18" diameter sonotube 66 3/4 tall, total height 77 1/4 inches with end-plates on both top and bottom.
Driver: 15" Adire Tempest, dual 8 ohm voicecoils, wired in parallel for a 4 ohm load to the amplifier. 2.5L displacement
Amp: 250 watt PartsExpress plate amp (no bass boost)
EQ: BFD Parametric Equalizer
Total Cost: + or - $350 (includes driver, amp,paint, MDF, sonotube, fabric. BFD added $100 more on top of that.)



Model:: I modeled my sub after several illustrated on the web, unfortunatly, many of the web-pages illustrating the subs I used to guide me are no longer on-line. (I built this sub in June 2003.) One that still exists is here

Measurements: At my listening position, these measurements are before equalization, pretty decent response down into the mid-teens. (my crossover was set to 80Hz, so that is why the response drops at the high end)

Prior speaker/sub construction experance level( 1- 10): 3 (I was in the final stages of building the Audax HT series of speakers when I built this subwoofer. Prior to building the Audax series I had no speaker/sub construction experience.)

Construction Notes: construction thread (the construction details are interspersed in this DIY thread... allot a few hours if you plan on reading the entire thread quite a few of us were building speakers for our theaters)

Summary:
This sonosub project replaced a 10" PartsExpress subwoofer. All I can say is that there was no way to begin to describe how much better the Tempest handles the low frequency content in movies. After equalization, I ended up with a fairly nice "house curve" About all I needed to do was apply a bit of a cut at 20Hz and another broad cut at 71Hz to end up with a fairly straight slope as the frequency dropped. My hearing cuts off at about 20Hz, but you can feel the bass below that and it is surprizing how much low-frequency, low level bass there is on many movie soundtracks.

More recently, this sub has been moved to the rear of my theater and is currently not connected. It was having a difficult time at reference volume levels with the very low frequency (< 10Hz) content on several of today's agressive DVDs. (Flight of the Pheonix, War-of-the-Worlds, Batman Begins) My choices were to either turn the volume down, add a rumble filter, or to build another (larger) subwoofer that could handle anything thrown at it. Building a replacement subwoofer involved far more sawdust, so I chose that option .

chasw98

Here is my homebuilt subwoofer. Steve Callas and ThomasW provided 90% of the guidance for me.









--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Design Thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=17629
Web Site: http://www.cwitt.com/building_a_sonotube_subwoofer.htm
Design: Ported or Extended Bass Shelf (EBS)
Enclosure: 20" diameter X 54" Tall (approx 9 cu ft net volume)
Driver: SoundSplinter RL-p15 dual 4 ohm
Amplifier: Behringer EP2500 (1 channel to each voice coil, 1500 wrms total)
EQ: Behringer DSP-1124P (BFD)
Cost: $700.00 for everything. Amp, EQ, driver, parts, etc.
Prior Experience: Speaker Building - 0, General Building - 7.5
Summary: I am extremely happy with this unit. The sound is very pleasing, no booming, lots of punch, good response down to 17 Hz. You can see the post eq graph is very flat. The unit in my living room (which is treated) was very flat to begin with but the BFD just dialed it in nicely.

taz13

Nice idea, here is one of mine


Thread is at http://www.htguide.com/forum/showth...5359#post225359

15" Adire Tempest, old model, in a 5000ci sealed box that is built into an endtable.
Behringer europower ep1500 for power
Everything but the stuffing and caulking were recycled.

__________________
The day is not complete if something new is not learnt.
Taz/Rick/Richard/Ricardo

TEK

My very plesent funiture sub that combines look, high WAF and lovely sound:







Ide: Creating a hi-end sub that I would be allowed to include in our living room despite the fact that it used a huge amount of space. Wanted it to be in the same design as our funitures.

Design: Sealed, Downfiring, single driver
Amp: Keiga KGND-52100
Element: Aurasound NS18
EQ: Velodyne SMS-1
Enclosure (without leather):
60cm x 120cm x 35cm (w, l, h)
Baffel (bottom): 4cm sandwitch, 2cm MDF, 1cm plywood, 1 cm MDF
Walls: 3cm sandwitch, 2cm MDF, 1cm plywood
Top: 2cm MDF (NB: 6cm foam and leather on top)
Bracing: Matrix construction from 1cm plywood

Building thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showth...1966#post231966
Originating thread/idea thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showth...ghlight=Ekornes

Remarks:
Just have to say that I'm very pleased with the end result of this project.
However, during the build of this sub I really have experienced how hard it might be to get your hands on stuff you need, like elements, amps and so on.
I'm quite sure that very good result could have been archived by selecting a cheaper element(s).
But in my case, at some time you just have to stop mocking around and get something done, to hell with turning the penny!
But now, at least the parts cost is in sync with the look of the thing

The sound of this baby is wonderful and I LOVE IT

__________________
Thanks, Trond-Eirik

kgveteran

These are my sealed Tumults.Each is powered by a bridged QSC 1450.I use a Marchand BASSIS to extend the lowend down into single digits.I also use a BFD to tame the peaks.

The cabinets are 2" thick MDF( all sides to include the internal brace ) Each cabinet weighs in at 350lbs.That eliminates the cabinet movement from the drivers.

They sit in the center stage area because that is the flattest response out to 100hz.For some reason 100hz is magic in this room ,80hz seems to have its own crop of problems that are too many peaks.

Also center is the RS center from the sticky thread.

I've since pulled the BFD. I now use Audyssey processing in my Denon 3808ci receiver as a processor !

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
Here is my LCR "Trio". Way to go guys !

ajpoe

Design Thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=14644
Design: Sealed
Enclosure: Parts Express 3.0 cubic foot boxes
Driver: Ascendent Audio Avalanch 15s
Amplifier: Crown K1
EQ: Behringer DSP-1124P (BFD)
Cost: $1800 total for 2 subs (Drivers, boxes, supplies, amp, BFD)
Prior Experience: None
Summary: This was a fun and rewarding project. It's very cool to tell my friends that I built these babies. I have never heard or felt anything that compared. Thanks so much to those who helped!

__________________
AJPoe - - Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional!

DarrenT

Design Thread: none
Design: Passive Radiator
Enclosure: 24" cube 1.25" thick MDF
Driver: Acoustic Elegance AV 15 (and two 18" PR's)
Amplifier: PE Dayton HPSA500 500 watt plate amp
EQ: Built in
Cost: $750.00 approx.
Prior Experience: Several subwoofers and DIY speakers
Summary: I'm very happy with this sub, I don't have formal measurements but it is quite adequate in my 3,200 cubic foot room. The bottle of Captain Morgan is for scale

The finish is Walmart bedliner roll-on product. I wanted something simple and that finish is surprisingly good when rolled on with a foam roller.

__________________
Darren Thomas
www.garagehobbies.com

DarrenT

Design Thread: none
Design: Ported
Enclosure: Adire Alignment 214L 3/4" mdf
Driver: Adire Audio Tempest
Amplifier: PE 250 watt plate amp
EQ: None
Cost: $400.00
Prior Experience: DIY HT speakers
Summary: This was my first subwoofer project. I had built my HT speakers prior to this sub. I was very happy with this sub as it was quite a bit of bang for the buck. I sold it to build my AV15 which I have now. I'll probably be selling the AV15 soon to build an IB once more drivers are available. There are more pictures available at my website listed in my signature.

The enclosure is veneered with cherry and 1/4" milled solid cherry. The top is 3/4" solid cherry and so are the legs. The finish is several coats of Tung oil rubbed to a satin sheen.

The business end



First coat of tung oil... many more to go

__________________
Darren Thomas
www.garagehobbies.com

jmb

Design: Sealed
Enclosure: 1.9f^3 10 ply Maple drum shell, 1.25” MDF end plugs, .75” Red Oak endcaps and base. Braced with 1.25” diameter oak dowels x3, from endplug to baffle.
Driver: RythmikAudio DS12TC
Amp: RythmikAudio Servo A370SE 24dB.
EQ: Behringer 1124P (not in use)
Total Cost: $600.00
Measurements: With crossover set to lowest (40Hz) setting.



Prior speaker/sub construction experience level (1- 10): 6
Summary: This is a very well controlled system. Built exclusively for 2 channel use, it completely exceeds my expectations. No BOOM, just a well defined musical presentation. Some of the CD’s used in listening test were:
Roger Waters- Amused to Death
Bela Fleck- Drive
Jerry Garcia- Live at Keene College
Counting Crows-Across a Wire: Live in New York (Disc One)
Miles Davis- Kind of Blue
Charles Brown- These Blues
The Tractors- Farmers in a Changing World

Kingdaddy

One of my Sonosubs with the closable port valve and a 18" Maelstrom driver.

Attached Thumbnails

       

__________________
My Center Channel Project

cobbpa

Design Thread: none
Design: Sealed
Enclosure: ~2.8 ft^3
Driver: Elemental Designs 13kv.2
Amplifier: PE 250 watt plate amp
EQ: None
Cost: $200 (sales & such were kind )
Prior Experience: Limited car stereo experience..
Summary: My first HT project. I did have it ported to 30hz, but decided I didn't like worrying about over-excurision during movies with crazy low information (i.e., WOTW, scene 5). Little milder now, but the ability to recreate quick bass hits in music has been improved as well as the blending of sound with my bookshelves. MDF construction, 1.5" baffle, black enamel finish. It dominates my 135 sq ft dorm room.

HMenke

Credit for the success of this project goes out to you guys here at Mission Possible DIY, especially Thomas, Chuck, Steve, Ben, and collo. I could not have done it without all of your advice and knowledge.

Soundsplinter RLp-15 driver in 24" dia. x 46" H Sonotube, 300L net internal volume, 8" dia. x 33" L sonotube port for 17.5 Hz enclosure tune. Low-gloss dappled finish on end caps and floor plate is Plasti-Kote truck bed liner. Tube is covered in black speaker carpet. Port grille is DIY made from a ring of MDF and speaker grille cloth (cloth looks purplish in photo but black in person). The wall-mounted amp is a Samson S700 with each 350W channel driving one of the dual 4-ohm voice coils of the driver, for total of 700W. Amp is remote powered on/off by receiver's low-current switched outlet through a 15A AC mechanical relay (tried a solid state relay but harmonics caused transformer to buzz). Cost of build: driver $300, amp $300, materials and incidentals $200.









Uncorrected room response (tough room!)



Initial FR after equalization with Behringer DSP1124P Feedback Destroyer Pro (still tweaking)...



AutoCAD LT 2002 CAD model for download:
http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.me...ch_dia_tube.dwg

.DXF CAD model for download:
http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.me...ch_dia_tube.dxf

Design and construction thread
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=18713

dlneubec

Design: Sealed
Enclosure: 15"wide x 20.5"high x 17.5"deep , 3/4"MDF sides and back, 1-1/2" front baffle of hardwood over MDF, 45º downfiring. Two window-style braces.
Driver: DAYTON DVC310-88 12" DVC SERIES SUBWOOFER
Amp: 250W/ch plate amp each with 5db bass boost at 30hz
EQ: None, yet
Total Cost: $550 for both

Prior speaker/sub construction experance level( 1- 10): 0
Additional Detail

Summary:
I'm quite happy with these. They are set up as bases for my 2.5way MTM's. They were a bit challenging to build due to the angle. They have birch veneer which is stained mahogany. The outside front baffles are made from Purple Heart. The sound is very tight and lower than I expected. I guess the bass boost of the plate amps combined with room gain helps on the lower end. Some would probably not call these subs, since the F3 is not that low. The gain on the plate amp is set at about 1/3 and the HT receiver crossover is set to cross at 80Hz and has a -4db setting on the subs, when balanced properly with the rest of the system. They seem plenty loud in my room (about 3200 ft3).

Attached Thumbnails

     

Joe L.

History: My 260L, 6 1/2 foot tall, Adire Tempest based sonosub was having difficulty with very low frequency content on many of the newer agressive soundtracks. Even though tuned to just under 17Hz, it did not do well with high level content down at 10 Hz. I decided to replace it with something that could handle the very low frequency content.

When I made the statement that I was considering constuction of a new subwoofer my wife asked "Can you build it into the stage below the screen?"
I said, might work... let me see what might fit.

Design: Dual Sealed Subwoofers, built into the stage beneath the screen in my theater.
Enclosure: Each enclosure volume is 12.5 cubic feet. Total enclosure volume 25 cubic feet. The enclosure is roughly 8 feet wide, 30 inches deep
at the ends, 36 inches deep in the center, and 16 inches high.
Drivers: Each subwoofer has a 18" Ascendent Audio Avalanche driver, dual 2 ohm coils, wired in series for a 4 ohm load to the amplifier. Each driver has 6.5L displacement and is down-firing (Total displacement is 13 Liters)
Amp: NADY XA-1100 Pro Amplifier, dual channels, approx 475 watts per channel, each channel feeds one of the two subwoofers.
EQ: BFD Parametric Equalizer
Total Cost: + or - $ Drivers were on sale for roughly $300 each when I purchased them during the close-out-sale last year, figure $200 in other materials and $150 for the amplifier. So... just under $1000 total, not counting the BFD, I already owned it.

Prior speaker/sub construction experance level( 1- 10): 5 I had built the Audax HT set and a 260L Sonosub.

Design/Construction Thread: design / construction thread and more here construction thread

Summary: I'm now more limited by the amplifier than the sub drivers. It is sized so I cannot exceed x-max, but can get real close. The bass is intense, kick-drums "feel" like they are real, you can easily feel the pressure waves... I had to add spikes to the front feet to keep them from walking across the carpet on intense bass. Before I added the spikes to keep the enclosures in place on the carpet, they would move 4 inches or more during a movie. The front feet are about 5 1/2 inches high, the rear feet are a bit less, that makes the top of the subs slope towards the screen.

The top of the subs are covered with black velvet. It eliminates any distracting reflections. The front of the sub is covered with the same dark brown velour fabric as my screen wall.

I'ts not easy to hide 25 cubic feet of subwoofer enclosure in plain sight, but I come pretty close. Most guests don't even know I have a subwoofer until it comes alive.


First attachment: Initial stages of construction. Right side sub has most of the internal bracing installed, Left side enclosure is just being started.

Second attached picture: You can see the relative size of the drivers. There is a coffee mug sitting between them on the top of the enclosure. On the right you can see my existing (small) sonosub.

Third attached picture: Bottom view of one of the new sub enclosures. The driver does not look too big now, but the enclosure is 4 feet wide.

Fourth attached picture: Both subwoofers, side by side, before finish material was applied.

Attached Thumbnails

       

HMenke

Joe that is truly impressive! No-compromises performance, yet aesthetically they are well-hidden in the room. Nice!

derekbannatyne

Design Thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=17748
Design: Ported, tuned to 17hz
Enclosure: 7.77 cubic foot box after subtracting braces, etc.; 24.5 x 24.5 x 33 external dimensions
Driver: Dayton 15" DVC
Amplifier: Rythmik Audio 250w Plate Amp with a 16hz rumble filter
EQ: None yet
Cost: around $320 total
Prior Experience: 1 - built some half decent speakers for a science fair
Summary: This was a really fun project to make. The whole process probably took about 6 months including all the research, ordering of the parts, and actually constructing the enclosure. This thing gets loud and low, but it still sounds good for music. I haven't tested it's full limits yet, but I've never heard it bottom out or anything. The finish is Duplicolor truck bed lining, I used a quart for basic coverage and then used a spray can to get a more even finish, holding the can about 2 feet away while I sprayed. The side panels are 22 x 24.5, and are covered by aluminum flashing that you can find at any Home Depot for about $10 for a 2'x10' roll.

David G

Here's my effort which I called "Samson".

Stereo 10" Peerless XXLs subs, each in 35 litre sealed enclosures.
They supplement, rather than replace the low frequency response of my main Delta speakers. Hence total system now has 4 x 10" woofers.
Filtering is 2nd order butterworth at 40Hz using Marchand Xm1 active filters.
I also recently added a VU meter to keep an eye on power levels.

Full writeup here
http://www.gattiweb.com/samson_design.html

JimRHIT

Here's an old toy of mine ... since been given away and parted out to make 4 lil' guys

- Jim

Attached Thumbnails

         

__________________
starting from scratch ... everything but my trusty Marantz was left behind in Indy

Hank

Here's my sonosub I built about 4 years ago. Adire Tempest driver (best sub value I've seen). I built an open-back MDF box with radiused edges to match the sonotube's radius. My crude web site: http://www.geocities.com/hankbond1/index

chasw98

Those are some damn good looking speakers! Excellent job. I would love to hear those 72" GR line arrays. Good job.

Hank

Thank you, ChasW98! The successors to those are the upcoming line sources that he designed for AV123. They will sell complete, finished speakers. There's news about them on their site. Check Danny's discussing kits of those on the AudioCircles forum. The mid woofs will be 6.5" Adire XBL^2 technology drivers that have been quite a while in development, and the tweets will be custom NEO 3's. The midrange and 'presence' should be great with the new mid-woofs - should have very, very low distortion. Either finished or kit, they should be a fine value.

For the ultimate speaker, I'm looking forward to what Jon stirs up with his future "Saint-Saens" extravaganza.

Mark Hayenga

That's some good woodworking Frank

irfan

There is also a pull down FP screen that comes down infront of the TV for movies.


Ascendant Audio Assassin 12"
PE 250W amp w/ remote
4.5cube feet box
still touchin it up

ssabripo

Mine has been done for a few months, but I just finished putting the veneer on it....anyways:

Here is my Sub:

Driver: AE Speakers AV15 15" Longthrow driver
Amp: Oaudio 500W Bash Plate amp with PEQ
Design: See my Thread here


More tweaking and measurements still left, and finish on the sub still pending....but it is up and running, and sounding better than my $1300 SVS Ultra thus far I will update as I get more results and do more work, but here are the results thus far:


for comparison, here is the SVS PB-12 ultra:


here are the results with the AV15 and Ultra in pair, no EQ:


ps- Big Thanks and Help from Chasw98 in the construction of it...couldn't have done it without his help and tools!

UPDATE: here is the final product!! (click to enlarge)



more pics here:
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/550404344xwDkkr

__________________
My simple HT setup
4π using LMS, anyone?

slayer

Here are a couple pics of the sub I built for my HT. I have built 20-30 cars subs but never a home sub. It was nice to be able to not worry about size or weight. The walls are 2 layers of 1.5" MDF(3") and the baffle is 2 layers of 1.5" MDF and 2 layers of .75" Corian(4.5"). I used 1" MDF for internal bracing. I built this before ever finding this site so I never thought to take construction photos. The front has a piece of maple venner plywood that was going to be stained. I could not get a finish I liked so I just went with a gloss black. I did not like the gloss so I knocked it back with #0000 steel wool. Now it looks like rubber and matches the tops of my Veritas speakers. Looks better in person. You know how a camera flash is;>)

__________________
Randy

wackii

I've just completed the Avalanche 15 sonotube powered by QSC RMX850 pro amp.

Price:
Sonotube + port = $69
MDF = $24
Paints = $12
Fiberglass = $12
Screws + Grill + Speaker terminals = $30
Spray adhesive = $9
Speaker Carpet = $30
Misc items = $20
Avalanche 15 driver = $200
QSC RMX850 pro amp (830W bridged) = $180
Labor = priceless
Total = ~$600

Design Thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=20374
Design: Ported Sonotube 300L (22" dia X 54.5" height) with port (6" dia x 28" length)

Below are pics and measurements:




Credit goes to Steve and Thomas and every else that help me. Thanks all. I'm extremely happy with the outcome. So far I haven't heard any distortion or bottom out yet. The Avalanche 15 is really a nice subwoofer with great SQ.

Below are a few pictures of my 2 main speakers, also DIY on the GR A/V-3 kit:




Total price is about $550 with veneer and everything. Also, happy with the outcome. Great sound, nice and smooth...

Next project might be the center speaker... to be continued....

Al,