Statements crossover pictures?

[Jim Holtz]

I've been receiving emails from folks that would like to see a picture of the Statements crossover. My crossovers are functional but ugly so I never take pictures of them.

For those of you that build nicely laid out crossovers, could you post some pictures for the folks that are building them for the 1st time?

Thanks!

Jim

[Fdas]

I've been receiving emails from folks that would like to see a picture of the Statements crossover. My crossovers are functional but ugly so I never take pictures of them.

For those of you that build nicely laid out crossovers, could you post some pictures for the folks that are building them for the 1st time?

Thanks!

Jim

With as popular as these designs are I'm really surprised that the engineer for the crossover doesn't make gerber files available for people who would like to get a single sided PCB made to go with the speakers!

[mikela]

Not the clearest pictures or even the best layout but HTHs.

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showpost.php?p=406332&postcount=38

[Not2Evil]

I’ve seen lots of questions about how to get boards to mount parts on, or how to construct a crossover in general Most of you have methods of building crossovers that you prefer, which is fine if it works for you, but I’ll offer this again.

I don’t like soldering wires to components, only as a last resort, like a Band-Aid after a boo boo. I prefer to surface mount the component leads to a board and solder away. I’ve green wired, wire wrapped, exposed photo sensitized boards, ironed on patterns, used a milling machine (gerber files), and tons of purchased PWBs.

For this application the cost of the above is prohibitive. I prefer to use copper clad fiberglass board which is pretty cheap. Single sided .062” FR4 fiberglass with one ounce copper is rather inexpensive. It should be about $15 for 1 square foot.

So what does one do with a sheet of fiberglass and a solid copper plane?

1) Draw your layout on paper. Try to keep all of your ground on one side of your layout. Highlight which areas will remain copper (wires) and which areas will be removed.

2) Using an exacto knife and a straight edge, deeply score the copper in the desired pattern. If there are large areas of copper that need to be removed, make multiple scores to keep the sections about a half inch wide.

3) Using a hot iron with a big tip, heat a section of copper to be removed about a half inch from an edge, add a touch of solder and pick at an edge with a knife to lift it off of the fiberglass. Keep picking and lifting until about a quarter inch is in the air. Try not to crease or kink. If you blacken the board from the heat, it adds a little ugly, but nothing that’s going to hurt anything at these frequencies.

4) Put a small pool of solder about every 3 quarters of an inch along the copper to be removed.

5) Grasp the raised copper with a good pair of needle nose, slide the soldering iron along the work piece, and peel the copper off of the board using an angle of about 45 degrees with the pliers.

6) Once your “PWB” is complete, you can tin all of the copper if you wish, but it’s not necessary.

7) Bend the leads on your parts to surface mount to the copper pads you just created. Trim the leads so about a half inch is laying flat on the board.

8) Try to achieve a nice shiny, flowed fillet, not a dull glob of solder.

9) I surface mount my input / output wires also. Turrets and binding posts are readily available from places like Digikey if you prefer.

10) Lots of people use hot glue and tie wraps to hold their parts down. Dow Corning RTV #3045 is MIL approved. There is no odor and nothing to attack the enamel on your inductors.

11) Clean the flux off of your solder joints with aerosol flux remover (easy) or alcohol and a swab (harder).

Once complete, you have a strong, rigid assembly that is flat and can be directly screwed to your speaker without standoffs.

I have an upcoming build. If anyone is interested, I could take some pictures of the above steps.

[Not2Evil]

Geesh. I forgot to mention the reason for the above post. Purchased PWBs would be great for a given design. But........

They would cost a lot if not purchased in quantity. It costs about as much for 1 as it does for 20. That's about the break even point.

There are houses that have online design/layout software if you buy your board from them. I don't know the cost, but it could be an option for someone determined to have a commercial PWB.

I think the number one reason not to post gerber files is that there has to be some flexibility in the designs.

I can see so many posts that go like this.

The design calls for a 120uF Jantzen cap. I'd like to use a 75 Solen and an xyz 45. How do I make it fit on the board that I just spent $50 on?

Or, The Sound Clapper 3200 inductor isn't available, I'd like to substitute the Thunder Thor 3.2, but it's 2 inches wider and it interferes with the caps on either side. How can I make it all fit.

Whatever a Thunder Thor 3.2 is I want one, cause it sounds really cool.

[1Michael]

"I have an upcoming build. If anyone is interested, I could take some pictures of the above steps"
Yes, please do, and post it in a separate thread for easy locating :T

[sawdust]

Crossover

[soundemon]

Here are mine....

[BeerParty]

I've been receiving emails from folks that would like to see a picture of the Statements crossover. My crossovers are functional but ugly so I never take pictures of them.

If they want to see crossovers for the Statement Monitors, you can point them to my build thread, I took several pictures of my crossovers (not that I'm especially proud of them or anything :gah: ).

[john trials]

Here is a photo of my full-sized Statement xovers. They were 5.5" x 9". I mounted them directly below the woofer, on the inside of the baffle.

[FroDaddy]

The crossovers:

[Sefferdog]

https://www.htguide.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10423

[john trials]

Winner of the 'Ugliest Statement Crossover Contest"

I just finished soldering the xovers for my Monitors (switchable) and CC:

Switchable Monitors...I made the woofer xover one board. The mid and tweeter are on one board (mid on one side, tweeter on the other). The inductor for the mid circuit fit better over on the tweeter side. The boards are 4" x 6" each. They will be mounted to standoffs on the left and right walls in the woofer area.

woofer............................................ ..........mid (side a)................................................ ........tweeter (side b)



Center Channel...Woofer and tweeter share a board...mid has its own board. boards are 5" x 6". Mounted on the floor with 2" standoffs, so the xover will 'float' above the fiberglass lining.

[thatsnasty]

I'm sort of confused about the layout.

http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/statementsCrossovernets.JPG

This is what I'm looking at.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but basically you wire the 3 sections of the crossover up ( mid, tweet, woofer ), and then connect all the wires that say "source" together ( is this the red lead to your binding post? ), and then all the grounds together? ( the black lead to the binding post? )

Also, some the components for the full-sized statements seem to be out of stock, or on back order. Is it still safe to order them from ERSE? Or will I be waiting forever for the caps. I don't want to go look around for another website to order 2 dollars worth of items

[john trials]

I'm sort of confused about the layout.

http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/statementsCrossovernets.JPG

This is what I'm looking at.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but basically you wire the 3 sections of the crossover up ( mid, tweet, woofer ), and then connect all the wires that say "source" together ( is this the red lead to your binding post? ), and then all the grounds together? ( the black lead to the binding post? )

Also, some the components for the full-sized statements seem to be out of stock, or on back order. Is it still safe to order them from ERSE? Or will I be waiting forever for the caps. I don't want to go look around for another website to order 2 dollars worth of items

The answer to all of your crossover questions is "yes". The main trick that often gets overlooked is the mid drivers. They are wired reverse phase...+ goes to ground.

If parts are out of stock, you can get them from Erse, Madisound, PE, Meniscus, etc. I had parts back-ordered from Erse, and it only took a week to get them, but it's best to e-mail or call if you're in a rush.

[thatsnasty]

The answer to all of your crossover questions is "yes". The main trick that often gets overlooked is the mid drivers. They are wired reverse phase...+ goes to ground.

If parts are out of stock, you can get them from Erse, Madisound, PE, Meniscus, etc. I had parts back-ordered from Erse, and it only took a week to get them, but it's best to e-mail or call if you're in a rush.

Thanks for the fast response. I appreciate it. I've actually been on here for a while, and mostly browse AVS, but never posted here. I'm a big fan of the statements.

Just for clarification, it should look like this then?

Image not available

I'm in no rush, I just don't want Erse to end up never getting those components again. I'm sure they will.
I think I'm good to start assembling things. A few last questions for those who built the statements, if you guys don't mind.

Do I need gasket tape for the drivers? (I'm building the sealed version).

What screws are good for mounting everything? I see PE recommends 3/4" wood screws with the Dayton woofers.

And... about the polyfill. I read your post about 1" for the tunnels, and 2" for the rest. You wouldn't happen to have pictures of this, would you ?

Thanks again. I'll be sure to post mine up here when they are done!

[john trials]

Thanks for the fast response. I appreciate it. I've actually been on here for a while, and mostly browse AVS, but never posted here. I'm a big fan of the statements.

Just for clarification, it should look like this then?

I'm in no rush, I just don't want Erse to end up never getting those components again. I'm sure they will.
I think I'm good to start assembling things. A few last questions for those who built the statements, if you guys don't mind.

Do I need gasket tape for the drivers? (I'm building the sealed version).

What screws are good for mounting everything? I see PE recommends 3/4" wood screws with the Dayton woofers.

And... about the polyfill. I read your post about 1" for the tunnels, and 2" for the rest. You wouldn't happen to have pictures of this, would you ?

Thanks again. I'll be sure to post mine up here when they are done!

Yes, that wiring diagram is correct.

Gasket tape: yes. You should use gasket tape or weather stripping for any speaker, sealed, ported, whatever.

Screws: Lucky for you I just measured these last night (I'm building a CC and Statement Monitors now). I use #8 screws for the tweeter and mid. I use #10 screws for the woofers (on my Statements and CC and Monitor). All wood screws. I drill a pilot hole, then screw in the screw. Later in my buillds, I coat the enclosure with a 1:1 mixture of wood glue and water (2 or 3 coats). When this mixture gets into the screw hole, it hardens it well. So there is no real need for T-nuts for the drivers, unless you really want to.

No polyfil. Use 1" open cell foam in the tunnels, and 2" liner for the cabinets. I used unfaced fiberglass insulation, but 2" open cell foam is used by most people. Sorry, no photos of the fiberglass on my work computer. I'll try and remember to update my build thread sometime. Look in the woofer hole and line everywhere you see. Keep it back from the baffle by 2", and leave room around the tunnels so the upper woofer isn't 'cut off' from the lower volume.

[BeerParty]

And... about the polyfill. I read your post about 1" for the tunnels, and 2" for the rest. You wouldn't happen to have pictures of this, would you ?

My build thread has pictures of installing the foam inside the cabinets.

[exojam]

John,

It looks like you are making some progress on those monitors. Hopefully at the next New England get together I will be able to listen to them.

James

[n3wk1d]

This is great, i'm rather confuse at first on how to connect them up.
Now I see the real picture. ;x(
Thank you so much for the info.

Err... any idea if I can connect to 4 binding post ?
For Bi-Amp ?

Thanks for the fast response. I appreciate it. I've actually been on here for a while, and mostly browse AVS, but never posted here. I'm a big fan of the statements.

Just for clarification, it should look like this then?

Image not available

I'm in no rush, I just don't want Erse to end up never getting those components again. I'm sure they will.
I think I'm good to start assembling things. A few last questions for those who built the statements, if you guys don't mind.

Do I need gasket tape for the drivers? (I'm building the sealed version).

What screws are good for mounting everything? I see PE recommends 3/4" wood screws with the Dayton woofers.

And... about the polyfill. I read your post about 1" for the tunnels, and 2" for the rest. You wouldn't happen to have pictures of this, would you ?

Thanks again. I'll be sure to post mine up here when they are done!

[BeerParty]

Err... any idea if I can connect to 4 binding post ?
For Bi-Amp ?

When you bi-amp, I don't think you connect all the lines to all the posts. I think you split the load between the posts. For example you connect the tweeter and the mids to one set of posts and the woofers to another set of posts.

[n3wk1d]

All my parts are here and I'm not sure if i've ordered correctly.
The x-over schematic show 80uF on Net3, but BOM list have 68uF and 12uF.
Do I join them together to make it 80uF ?


Ah.. read through the Mini Statement built again and found my answer.. ops:

C3021 is a combination of the 68 uF and the 12 uF in parallel, which adds up to 80 uF. by Curt C

Image not available