Designs Using Vifa D25 Tweeters

[james5]

Ok, so I happen to have 7 Vifa D25 tweeters (it was 8, but the aluminum dome in one is damaged) that are in my "hand-me-down" definitive technology ht setup. Seeing as how I'm just about finished with my first ever DIY project, the excellent Natalie P's (I've just got to put the wipe on poly over the stain) I'd like to start thinking about my next project.

Unfortunately, there aren't really many published designs using the Vifa D25. The only one I've found that looks any good is this Dennis Murphy design.

I don't think I'm ready to start designing anything myself, but if you guys know of any other designs using this tweeter or can offer comment on Dennis Murphy's Vifa Tower I would appreciate it. Also, if someone wants to help me design a floor standing MT or MTM that would be cool! :P

Thanks guys!

[Undefinition]

The only one I've found that looks any good is this Dennis Murphy design.

I don't think I'm ready to start designing anything myself, but if you guys know of any other designs using this tweeter or can offer comment on Dennis Murphy's Vifa Tower I would appreciate it. Also, if someone wants to help me design a floor standing MT or MTM that would be cool! :P

Yeah, Dennis Murphy is probably my favorite "crossover artist." Though I've never heard it, I have no doubt that's an excellent-sounding design.

Lou Caraggio (from the PE Board) did a small 2-way with them called the Ruby

http://www.lonesaguaro.com/speakers/RSBoys/Ruby.htm

I did a design with the SHIELDED version of the D25AG.

http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-vaagens

But I'm a big fan of that tweeter. I have a pair in a box right now (the normal ones, not the shielded) just waiting for something interesting to do. I'll help you design something for them. My biggest problem is that my house is limited in space, so even if I designed a floorstanding TM or MTM, I couldn't keep them around.

OR... if you really want to go off the deep end, I can pretty easily do a version of my Sunflowers with that tweeter.

[james5]

Yeah, Dennis Murphy is probably my favorite "crossover artist." Though I've never heard it, I have no doubt that's an excellent-sounding design.

Lou Caraggio (from the PE Board) did a small 2-way with them called the Ruby

http://www.lonesaguaro.com/speakers/RSBoys/Ruby.htm

I did a design with the SHIELDED version of the D25AG.

http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-vaagens

But I'm a big fan of that tweeter. I have a pair in a box right now (the normal ones, not the shielded) just waiting for something interesting to do. I'll help you design something for them. My biggest problem is that my house is limited in space, so even if I designed a floorstanding TM or MTM, I couldn't keep them around.

Thanks for all the help!


OR... if you really want to go off the deep end, I can pretty easily do a version of my Sunflowers with that tweeter.

Hey Paul...

I actually found the link to Dennis Murphy's site while taking a look at your Aether and Sunflower designs.

I am VERY interested in open back hybrid dipole designs. I must admit that I don't know too much about the theory behind any of this, but I know what sounds good to me.

I definitely hear you about the space thing. Fortunately, I'm getting rid of some towers so that means that it's OK to add some towers (at least according to the wife).

Maybe a MT or MTM with optional bass bin would be something both of us could use in the end? I hate to have you help design something that you don't get to keep for a while. I could always build Dennis Murphy's design, but a dipole design would be pretty sweet. I don't know...you're the man with the skills...all I have is some woodworking tools, a soldering iron, and a bunch of tweeters!

Oh, and I'm all about "value" drivers (I noticed you use several buy-out drivers in your designs) even if they're not metal cone. 8O

Thanks for all the help!
-j

[Undefinition]

OK. Now before we go any farther I need to be sure you have the exact right tweeter. We are talking about the Vifa D25AG-35, correct? You say yours came from some Definitive Technology speakers? I just want to be sure these are the same models as those commercially available.

Now, as far as projects go, if you are at all interested in an OB or dipole design, I have faith that these tweeters would work well in the Sunflowers--and since the tweeter flange is the same size, I can just swap it in and tweak the XO. Let me know if this interests you. The Sunflowers are without a doubt my highest-quality design, so that's something to think about.

I don't know about your budget, but the other thing I was thinking of using the D25AG paired up with the Scan Speak 8545K. Of course, that is definitely NOT a "value" design. But it would make a wicked floorstanding TM or MTM. :twisted:

[Mudjock]

My first DIY project used the D25AG35 with an 8" Peerless CSX series woofer (now discontinued). I really like the D25. When the Seas 27 series was the same price, most people chose them over the Vifa, but now that they are up over $40 each, maybe the Vifa has a place as a "budget" tweeter.

I'm not sure the Vifa M21 used in Dennis Murphy's project is around anymore. There are a number of interesting options. Parts Express has an MTM kit using two of their 7" DA-175 woofers and the D25 that could be built into a floor standing enclosure. If you are buying woofers and crossover parts from them, they might be willing to give the crossover schematic...

A slim, floorstanding MTM with the Dayton RS-150 would be a reasonable project (a variation of cjd's MTM in the Mission Accomplished section). For MT's, two other woofer candidates for a small floor-stander would be the HiVi D6.8 and Usher 8945P. The options in this paragraph would require a newly designed crossover, which could be done reasonably well with simulations based on manufacturer's data. - but would be better if someone could measure the drivers response in the actual box.

[james5]

I'll double check the tweeter when I get home. Now that I think about it, I am willing to bet they are probably shielded as they are from commercial speakers...but I'll find out for sure.

I'd love a Sunflower design tweaked for these tweeters. I'll probably wait a little while to build them because I want to try and do something unique with the cabinets. By the way what kind of wood did you use for the ones on your home page?

That Scan Speak looks pretty sweet. I definitely couldn't afford to do a MTM with it, but may be able to swing the money to do an MT. What are you looking for in the woofer? I like that the 8545K can play low...Fs of 28 hz. If you think it'll rock...then I'm sure it will. Bottom line...if it works for you it works for me! Like I said, my knowledge is limited.

[james5]

Ok...the D25's that I have are NOT shielded.

What are you thinking Paul? D25 w/the Peerless 8545K?

[Undefinition]

My first DIY project used the D25AG35 with an 8" Peerless CSX series woofer (now discontinued). I really like the D25. When the Seas 27 series was the same price, most people chose them over the Vifa, but now that they are up over $40 each, maybe the Vifa has a place as a "budget" tweeter.

I'm not sure the Vifa M21 used in Dennis Murphy's project is around anymore. There are a number of interesting options. Parts Express has an MTM kit using two of their 7" DA-175 woofers and the D25 that could be built into a floor standing enclosure. If you are buying woofers and crossover parts from them, they might be willing to give the crossover schematic...

A slim, floorstanding MTM with the Dayton RS-150 would be a reasonable project (a variation of cjd's MTM in the Mission Accomplished section). For MT's, two other woofer candidates for a small floor-stander would be the HiVi D6.8 and Usher 8945P. The options in this paragraph would require a newly designed crossover, which could be done reasonably well with simulations based on manufacturer's data. - but would be better if someone could measure the drivers response in the actual box.

Those are all very good suggestions. Actually, the DA175 or RS150 MTM would probably sound excellent. The biggest problem (with both designs) is that the drivers have a fairly high Qts, which makes them work better in a sealed enclosure. And if you want deep bass, vented would be the way to go--and I just don't see either driver having much power handling in a vented alignment.

So yeah, back to the issue at hand: choice of midbass. I wanted to try the Scan Speak 8545K for selfish reasons (that is: I have them on-hand). However, after looking around at all the other midbasses currently available, I think another good/interesting choice would be the HiVi M8a.

Like I said, my biggest hang-up about this project is the mere "space factor" (or lack thereof) in my house for more large speakers. I do have one friend who could--quite possibly--be very interested in taking such speakers off my hands when I'm finished with them, though.

It's too bad you don't live near Chicagoland, then I could just pull a Ryan/CJD and have you build the enclosures, bring them to my house, and let me design the XO.

So I don't know exactly how to proceed. You said you're finishing up your Natalie P's, so I don't get the impression you're rushed. Of the all the various options so far, what interests you?

[Mudjock]

Interesting idea with the M8A... I wonder if the woofer could go high enough and the tweeter low enough to meet up. In Jon Marsh's design, he crossed steep and very low (about 1.2 kHz IIRC) to get the M8A to work with the Vifa XT25. The D25 has a higher Fs than the XT25, but it does have ferrofluid, so it may still be able to hang down there - especially since it's going to need quite a bit of padding in an MT configuration.

[Undefinition]

Whoah! He crossed THAT low?!?

Interesting idea with the M8A... I wonder if the woofer could go high enough and the tweeter low enough to meet up. In Jon Marsh's design, he crossed steep and very low (about 1.2 kHz IIRC) to get the M8A to work with the Vifa XT25. The D25 has a higher Fs than the XT25, but it does have ferrofluid, so it may still be able to hang down there - especially since it's going to need quite a bit of padding in an MT configuration.

I had no idea Jon Marsh used the M8a crossed THAT low. Looking at the FR, I guess I thought I could get it to cross somewhere around 1700-2000 Hz. But the response does drop like a rock after that. So I dunno.
I find it incomprehsible that he crossed the XT25 that low. I mean, that tweeter DOES have a low Fs, but it doesn't like to be crossed low at all (it is a really great tweeter when you get it right, htough)
Well, I might have to reconsider that midwoofer choice. On the other hand, the price is nice! :W
By the way, it's nice to see you around again, Scott. I always value your input.

[Mudjock]

Here's a link to the article. I wouldn't ever have thought of crossing the XT25 that low. Jon used an elliptical crossover. The interesting thing is that the successor to this design, the M8ta started out using the Hales Transcendence tweeter, which was very similar to the Vifa D25 (better build quality, including fancy metal faceplate - but similar guts IIRC).

Jon's XT25-M8A Design Information

[Jonasz]

John Kreskovsky has a highly regarded design using the D25 and Vifa P17. Can't find it anywhere though...

[james5]

Those are all very good suggestions. Actually, the DA175 or RS150 MTM would probably sound excellent. The biggest problem (with both designs) is that the drivers have a fairly high Qts, which makes them work better in a sealed enclosure. And if you want deep bass, vented would be the way to go--and I just don't see either driver having much power handling in a vented alignment.

So yeah, back to the issue at hand: choice of midbass. I wanted to try the Scan Speak 8545K for selfish reasons (that is: I have them on-hand). However, after looking around at all the other midbasses currently available, I think another good/interesting choice would be the HiVi M8a.

Like I said, my biggest hang-up about this project is the mere "space factor" (or lack thereof) in my house for more large speakers. I do have one friend who could--quite possibly--be very interested in taking such speakers off my hands when I'm finished with them, though.

It's too bad you don't live near Chicagoland, then I could just pull a Ryan/CJD and have you build the enclosures, bring them to my house, and let me design the XO.

So I don't know exactly how to proceed. You said you're finishing up your Natalie P's, so I don't get the impression you're rushed. Of the all the various options so far, what interests you?

Yeah, I'm definitely not in a hurry to get anything started. I work in construction so the winter is typically the slow time of the year for us (I'll have lots of time to work on cabinets), so I'm hoping to get something together by Christmas (as a gift to myself of course ).

A little more background on where I'm coming from...I'm going to use these to replace two def tech towers with 4 - 6.5 inch woofers and a 15" side-firing sub...so I'm worried about output in the low frequencies. I have a separate sub, but I really like being able to get some nice lows from my front mains.

Since I'm worried about output in the low frequencies and you don't necessarily need another set of floor standers maybe we could go with a fairly large MT with optional passive/active subwoofer in a separate enclosure a la your sunflowers/aethers. By doing that, at least you'll be able to stick these in your bedroom or something :W.

If you've got some Peerless 8545k's already let's just go for it with those as a large bookshelf MT with optional "bass bin". Heck, you're designing these...I'm still learning about why certain drivers are selected for use with each other!

Another note...My brother-in-law has access to a CNC router until the end of this year as well so I may try to do something unique with the enclosure, but we'll have to figure out the drivers/enclosure sizes first.

So I'm game for the 8545k's with the D25AG35 if you are.

[Undefinition]

Since I'm worried about output in the low frequencies and you don't necessarily need another set of floor standers maybe we could go with a fairly large MT with optional passive/active subwoofer in a separate enclosure a la your sunflowers/aethers. By doing that, at least you'll be able to stick these in your bedroom or something :W.

So I'm game for the 8545k's with the D25AG35 if you are.

All right, thanks for the executive decision. I think this will work out just fine. The woofer can get good bass in a .5 cu ft box, but it can get even deeper if you give it a bigger box.

For instance the old Ellis 1801 used this woofer in a large-ish bookshelf, and its bass satisfied many. (If anyone has any technical details about that version of the 1801, please pitch in) Coincidentally, I heard Dave Ellis' floorstanding version of the 1801 (using the Seas Excel driver) at Iowa 2007, and the bass was excellent--as was everything else about the speaker, really.

I originally wanted to use these drivers in speakers for my desktop at work, but .5 cu ft (or larger) enclosures might look sort of silly on my desk. The other problem would be the absolutely massive magnets on the drivers, which make trippier psychedelic patterns on a CRT than I've ever seen any driver make :lol:

And yes, if more bass is desired, I can use the TM cabinet in a 3-way with a bass bin. I was already planning a TM box like this for an uber-speaker a la Tony Gee's Andromeda. But for now, I want to see what this driver combo can do as just a 2-way.

By the way, what did you have in mind in terms of the unusual cabinet design you mentioned? Did you want this designed with a slanted baffle or anything? Or just regular rectangular prism?

[james5]

By the way, what did you have in mind in terms of the unusual cabinet design you mentioned? Did you want this designed with a slanted baffle or anything? Or just regular rectangular prism?

I think just a standard rectangular baffle would work best for me. I can do a lot with the sides and rear of the cabinet without changing the baffle. I'm thinking of going with some sort of trans-laminate look using birch or oak ply since I can easily have the pieces cut by my bro-in-law.

Let me know when you determine the baffle dimensions and cabinet volume and I'll get some ideas drawn up.

[Mudjock]

In Dave's journey toward the 1801, he had a design for the Scanspeak 8545K and the Seas T25-001, which he used as his reference system for a couple of years before settling on the Seas W18 and Hiquphon OW1 and having Dennis Murphy work up a crossover for his commercial 1801 kit. He has said a number of times that he preferred the bass from the 8545. I don't really have a lot of other information about that version - there are a couple of pictures of it at ellisaudio.com in the PT&E section. Since he isn't offering this commercially, he might be willing to share his crossover design for reference purposes...

A few years back, someone brought an MTM using the 8545 to DIY Iowa and it had very impressive, dynamic bass. I believe it was a Madisound kit.

[Undefinition]

The Commodores

I think just a standard rectangular baffle would work best for me. I can do a lot with the sides and rear of the cabinet without changing the baffle. I'm thinking of going with some sort of trans-laminate look using birch or oak ply since I can easily have the pieces cut by my bro-in-law.

Let me know when you determine the baffle dimensions and cabinet volume and I'll get some ideas drawn up.

All right, this is a quick sketch. Based on the standard published T/S specs and alignments I found around the internet, it seems that 22 Liters is considered "optimal" for the SS 8545K. Modeling this up in Unibox, I can see that it definitely IS a good tradeoff between low extension (probably upper 30's in a normal room) and transient response. So 22 Liters it is.

I drew up a bookshelf speaker (9"W x 18"H x 13"D), and then I thought more about a floorstander. I took a gander over at Totem Acoustics website and I really liked what I saw. So I adapted their design to this one (8"W x 34"H x 11"D) (plagiarism? :E ). I think it will look quite dignified, and should sound like money (assuming my skills are in check :W ). It's still 22 liters, but there's some open space at the bottom for the XO or some ballast.

If it's OK with you James, I think I will go ahead and build the floorstanding version. I may not KEEP the speaker when I'm done, because I have several floorstanding 2-way ideas I want to try out, and I can re-use the cabinet until I get all the driver combinations all out of my system :B

Are you OK with the tweeter offset? I haven't actually done any response modeling yet, so I don't know if the offsetting is necessary or even beneficial for this design, but I'm just asking ahead of time.

So that's that. I'm excited. I needed something to motivate me to finish up a few small projects in the garage to clear up room to start something new!

[james5]

All right, this is a quick sketch. Based on the standard published T/S specs and alignments I found around the internet, it seems that 22 Liters is considered "optimal" for the SS 8545K. Modeling this up in Unibox, I can see that it definitely IS a good tradeoff between low extension (probably upper 30's in a normal room) and transient response. So 22 Liters it is.

I drew up a bookshelf speaker (9"W x 18"H x 13"D), and then I thought more about a floorstander. I took a gander over at Totem Acoustics website and I really liked what I saw. So I adapted their design to this one (8"W x 34"H x 11"D) (plagiarism? :E ). I think it will look quite dignified, and should sound like money (assuming my skills are in check :W ). It's still 22 liters, but there's some open space at the bottom for the XO or some ballast.

If it's OK with you James, I think I will go ahead and build the floorstanding version. I may not KEEP the speaker when I'm done, because I have several floorstanding 2-way ideas I want to try out, and I can re-use the cabinet until I get all the driver combinations all out of my system :B

Are you OK with the tweeter offset? I haven't actually done any response modeling yet, so I don't know if the offsetting is necessary or even beneficial for this design, but I'm just asking ahead of time.

So that's that. I'm excited. I needed something to motivate me to finish up a few small projects in the garage to clear up room to start something new!

Wow...quick work Paul! Both the bookshelf and the floorstanding version look great. I really like the slender overall dimensions of the floorstanding version. All of those are external dimensions assuming 3/4" cabinet material, right?

I've always preferred offset tweeters. They just "look" right, if that makes sense.

I'm going to start plugging away at some different trans-laminate cabinet designs and see what I can come up with. Hopefully I'll have something pretty soon. Props on the quick work!

[Undefinition]

All of those are external dimensions assuming 3/4" cabinet material, right?

Yes. Probably 3/4 all around, with some sort of bracing throughout. Don't know what yet. I'm no bracing expert, and I usually just do a few braces from side-to-side, connecting parallel walls, raising the pitch of the cabinet until the "knock test" comes out high enough for my liking. Not very sophisticated, I know, but probably the easiest and cheapest way to brace.
(I'm open to suggestions, as long as they don't take longer to do than build the cabinet itself!)

[james5]

Yes. Probably 3/4 all around, with some sort of bracing throughout.

I just wanted to make sure so that the internal dimensions of my trans-lam design matches that of your cabinets that way the internal volume is the same. The front baffle will be the exact same dimensions.

I can't decide if I should go with the bookshelf version first and then the floorstander or floorstander then bookshelf. Decisions... 8O

[Undefinition]

I can't decide if I should go with the bookshelf version first and then the floorstander or floorstander then bookshelf. Decisions... 8O

Well, the XO would have to be different for the two designs (different baffle width = change in BSC), although the differences might be slight. So, since I'll be doing the floorstander now, I'd recommend doing that one first.

[james5]

Well, the XO would have to be different for the two designs (different baffle width = change in BSC), although the differences might be slight. So, since I'll be doing the floorstander now, I'd recommend doing that one first.

Right...I just realized that the two baffles were different widths, thus necessitating different BSC. That makes my decision easier. Floorstander it is!

[Amphiprion]

There were tons of designs that used the D25AG35, you're just about a decade and a half too late

Heck, I even had a design that used them along with the P17WJ (which was invariably the driver it was paired with back in the day). FWIW it was a very good tweeter.

[james5]

I've attached a rough plan view of what I'm thinking of for a trans-lam version of the D25/8545k floorstander. One thing I'm unsure of is whether or not having the rear of the cabinet angled like it's shown in the file will cause any weird back waves from the mid-woofer. Can anyone shed some light on this? I would assume that cabinet damping could fix it, but I'm not sure.

Paul-Are you planning on porting this or leaving it sealed? I may have to make the cabinet a little taller to make up for the lost volume from tapering the sides, but that shouldn't affect anything right? I don't have Solidworks at my office, so I'll have to spend some time one of these nights getting a 3D model and cabinet volume to figure out what the final height will be.

back to the real job...

[Undefinition]

I've attached a rough plan view of what I'm thinking of for a trans-lam version of the D25/8545k floorstander. One thing I'm unsure of is whether or not having the rear of the cabinet angled like it's shown in the file will cause any weird back waves from the mid-woofer. Can anyone shed some light on this? I would assume that cabinet damping could fix it, but I'm not sure.

I think that cabinet shape should be pretty cool! I wouldn't worry too much about backwaves from the woofer. You have to realize that sound waves are bouncing all throughout the cabinet in every direction, not just back and forth like a laser beam. Plus, with a bit of lining on the cabinet walls as well as "judicious use of stuffing" as Curt C puts it, I don't think you could pay anyone to hear the backwave.

To answer a much larger concern, yes, the design is ported. It's 22 Liters, tuned to 37 Hz or so. This means a 2" dia vent that is 6" long (according to the model. you never know until you hear it, IMO) I am going to port mine out the rear. You might want to position yours floor-firing... or out the front could work, too. <shrug> If you're handy with CAD, let's see what you can do :W

I'm planning on cutting the cabinets this weekend. Very psyched! :-y

[james5]

I'm planning on cutting the cabinets this weekend. Very psyched! :-y

Wow...you work quick! :T It takes me forever to build cabinets, but I think I tend to over-reach a little bit.

Hopefully I can find some time one of these nights to get these into a 3d model.

Let me know how the cabinets turn out.

[Undefinition]

Update... let's take a look!

I like to call them the VIC-20. 8) Why? The drivers are a bit dated, but it should prove to be a reliable workhorse (also, the long, slender design). We'll see how it starts shaping up once I get some raw measurements; my laptop is currently out for warranty repair.

For the first time in a long time, I was pretty conscientious while building these. I actually measured more than once before cutting. Thus--I think for the first time--I didn't have to scrap any baffles! Didn't screw up any screw holes or cut panels the wrong size, neither!

[james5]

I like to call them the VIC-20. 8) Why? The drivers are a bit dated, but it should prove to be a reliable workhorse (also, the long, slender design). We'll see how it starts shaping up once I get some raw measurements; my laptop is currently out for warranty repair.

For the first time in a long time, I was pretty conscientious while building these. I actually measured more than once before cutting. Thus--I think for the first time--I didn't have to scrap any baffles! Didn't screw up any screw holes or cut panels the wrong size, neither!

Those look like a a very nice size. I bet these will get high WAF marks for being slim and compact! Looking forward to seeing how the XO comes out.

[Undefinition]

HELP! Impedance is drooping!

Well, it's more parts than I would have liked to use, but it's a good start. Firing it up and initial listening impressions are good. The tight phase alignment is definitely working in their favor, as imaging is as accurate as I've ever managed to do with a pair of speakers.

But the HP filter still has me bugged.

1. Why is the impedance drooping so much between 2000 and 3000 Hz? (This IS a result of the HP filter, right?)
2. The tweeter is sort of harsh--I almost feel as if I'm hearing a harmonic. I've heard the D25AG used correctly, and I would never describe it as harsh, so I think I've done something wrong.

So passive XO gurus, if you have the time, could you please take a look and if you have any insight, it would be greatly appreciated.

As they say on eBay, thanks for looking!

EDIT: revised crossover. Took this version down. All is good now.

[Undefinition]

OK, the VIC-20 are finished!

Mmmm. Delicious!

Not cheap, but the Scan-Speak 8545K + Vifa D25AG-35 make for a very good blend!

http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-vic-20

[Undefinition]

Move over VIC-20, here comes the TRS-80

I never thought I'd do a project named this (but it sure was suggested an awful lot). I never thought I'd pair these drivers together.

But it started as a sort of curiosity; someone asked on the PE board if the RS180-4 would work with the Vifa D25AG. I don't have any RS180-4 around, but I do have the 8 Ohm version, and a cabinet that just so happens to be pre-cut for the RS180 and a 104 mm tweeter. I knew it was possible; I had no idea how it would sound.

So you're probably all thinking one of a few things:
1. Those two drivers shouldn't work together; you're not supposed to cross the RS180 that high.
2. That tweeter is so OLD!

Well, in regards to #1, I have found ways to cross the RS180 much higher than the commonly-believed limit--while still taking out that god-awful cone breakup
And as far as #2 goes, well, why not? It's a pretty nice tweeter. Chances are you might have a pair lying around somewhere.

I have no choice but to pull the VIC-20 design down. There's no reason to build it after doing this.

The TRS-80 was one of those designs that just sort out "sounded good right out of the gate." In fact, this is sort of like one of those speakers that just makes you want to put your feet up and pull out volumes of CDs, and listen to all your favorites. It's totally not what I expected, but these are actually the most detailed speakers i've ever built! :E

Plus, doing a quick add-up of parts, they came in at a little over $200! (Of course, PE has the RS180 on sale right now, so that might bring the cost up a bit when the sale ends)

Now, for those of you who don't want to mess with a dinosaur of a tweeter like this, fear not. There will most likely be a version using the 27 TBFC/G (we'll call it "Satin Doll"). But hey, the D25 are cheaper, plus like I said, lots of DIYers tend to have them around.

I'll put up a XO and stuff soon. As usual, I'd like a few days to voice.

[james5]

Paul-
This looks pretty sweet as I have two RS180-8 and plenty of D25's. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the design.

On a side note, I finished the Classix and have had them set up in our bedroom for a couple of weeks now and I must say that they sound awesome! I'll take some pictures and post them in the Classix thread here. I'm very impressed with their clarity and they definitely put out some bass for such small speakers! I think they are a great deal for the money. :T

-J

[Undefinition]

Paul-
This looks pretty sweet as I have two RS180-8 and plenty of D25's. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the design.

On a side note, I finished the Classix and have had them set up in our bedroom for a couple of weeks now and I must say that they sound awesome! I'll take some pictures and post them in the Classix thread here. I'm very impressed with their clarity and they definitely put out some bass for such small speakers! I think they are a great deal for the money. :T

-J

Wow, I'm glad that worked out so ideally! :B For a small investment in XO parts, you will have one very fine speaker to enjoy (Totem acoustics, eat your heart out).

I'm glad you like the Classix. I'd enjoy seeing some pictures of them; but I don't think there is a thread for that design around here (the poor DC160 is sort of frowned upon in these here parts :cry: ). So go ahead and start a thread about it!