Hole-in-the-wall Gang?

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  • denverdoc
    Member
    • Aug 2004
    • 66

    Hole-in-the-wall Gang?

    Call me crazy, but I am planning to put my hi-def tv/audio HT set-ip in a great room that adjoins the kitchen, its nook, main foyer and is irregularly shaped to beat the band--this when I have two unused and perfectly-suited large, symmetric rectangular rooms. I want to use an RPTV in 55 to 65 range with seating about 12 feet away.(for me CRT RPTV is still the format of choice as I watch almost all cinema) Dimensions of room including kithen area are about 15 x 30 x 9.

    Since I live alone and don't really need the fourth bedroom behind the non load bearing wall that the TV would go against (or thru), thought I would just punch a great big hole and slide that big cow thru so the TV is either flush or a few inches recessed. Anyone out there have any experience and/or caveats about such a plan? Also what are the implications re center channel audio--thought about punching smaller screen flanking holes for dual monaural centers that use the same ribbons as my main fronts.

    Denverdoc
  • David Meek
    Moderator Emeritus
    • Aug 2000
    • 8938

    #2
    Originally posted by denverdoc
    Since I live alone and don't really need the fourth bedroom behind the non load bearing wall that the TV would go against (or thru), thought I would just punch a great big hole and slide that big cow thru so the TV is either flush or a few inches recessed. Anyone out there have any experience and/or caveats about such a plan? Also what are the implications re center channel audio--thought about punching smaller screen flanking holes for dual monaural centers that use the same ribbons as my main fronts.
    Hey Dr. John, welcome to The Guide. :welcome:

    I did exactly that in my latest theater room. See this thread on CinemeekII for almost-finished-images.

    Caveats? One biggie: Be absolutely SURE that it's not a load-bearing wall before you begin cutting things. Mine was load-bearing (two story house) and that calls for extra measures such as proper bracing to prevent ANY movement of the structure while working on it, and appropriately heavier structural members. We can get into that in more detail a little later if you'd like. I used to be a framing carpenter years back, and this is a fairly simplistic operation (no pun intended) if you handle it correctly from the start.

    Center channel audio? Go with a low-mount stand that puts the top of the CC speaker immediately below the bottom of the screen. You get the same "voices from the screen" effect as if it was immediately above - especially if the CC is angled slightly upward at your ear-level in the "command chair". Going with a split-dual CC could cause some cancellation issues, or a "muddy" sound unless you go with some fairly sophisticated (read expensive) in-wall speakers. Also, if you plan on your L/R mains being out in the room, it's a good thing to get the CC out so that you basically have all three speakers' fronts on an arc with the center of the arc at your listening position. This minimizes/eliminates any delay setting issues. Also, I strongly recommend you model this before you do it. Programs such as CARA (Computer Aided Room Acoustics) are a dream for situations like this.

    Doc, we can get waayyyyyy into the weeds (details) on this if you'd like.

    I hope this helps, and good luck! :T
    .

    David - Trigger-happy HTGuide Admin

    Comment

    • denverdoc
      Member
      • Aug 2004
      • 66

      #3
      hole in the wall gang--part 2

      David,

      Thanks so much for the link--nice job on your set-up; gave me some great ideas; like if you got one hole, may as well make several for equipment and media storage. Love to see vinyl get such prominent display by the way.

      Noticed your display actually protrudes a few inches (I was thinking of recessed)--was that by choice or just the dictates of geometry? Also is that big puppy sticking all the way through so you have plenty of ventilation? I was hoping to practically seal mine in flush or with some break away molding around teh perimeter--any reason you left a few inches around the set?

      And finally thanks for reminding me about the load bearing issue--this is a semi-custom home, stock version comes with only a partial wall--now that I think about it thats no reason to assume it isn't load bearing.

      Comment

      • David Meek
        Moderator Emeritus
        • Aug 2000
        • 8938

        #4
        Noticed your display actually protrudes a few inches (I was thinking of recessed)--was that by choice or just the dictates of geometry? Also is that big puppy sticking all the way through so you have plenty of ventilation? I was hoping to practically seal mine in flush or with some break away molding around teh perimeter--any reason you left a few inches around the set?
        Hi again John. What you're seeing is just camera angle and the gap between the edge of the set and the molding. The face of the RPTV is flush with the wall. I left the small gap between the RPTV and the molding for two reasons, the primary was in case I ever went with a larger RPTV and a secondary is for a bit more ventilation. Speaking of which, there is about 6" clearance between the interior walls (sides/rear/ceiling) and the sides/top of the set along with large openings on the back wall for air movement. If I put a larger set in, I'll run a ducted fan to dump heat into the attic. As it is, with a nice dark paint on the inside of the cabinet, the RPTV blends right in visually (the flash accented the visual break).


        And finally thanks for reminding me about the load bearing issue--this is a semi-custom home, stock version comes with only a partial wall--now that I think about it thats no reason to assume it isn't load bearing.
        If you can, take measurements from an exterior wall and then hop up into the attic and repeat the measurements to see if there are any attic walls, braces, etc that are running to - or anywhere near - the joists. Anything close? It's load-bearing or a secondary support for load-bearing members.
        .

        David - Trigger-happy HTGuide Admin

        Comment

        • David Meek
          Moderator Emeritus
          • Aug 2000
          • 8938

          #5
          To all,

          I'm not trying to be an alarmist here. It's just that if you have several thousand pounds psf load, and you take out several studs across a 60-80" gap, then that load is going to force the wall/ceiling around the gap into it unless it's braced properly before-hand. Trust me - this is always a BAD thing, and can easily be a dangerous thing!

          In other words gang, DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME! Let someone that is knowledgable AND experienced do this kind of work. Okay?

          [LEGAL STUFF]Neither I, HT Guide or it's owner will accept responsibility if you or others working for you damage your home by modifying it in this or any other manner. Again, always have a professional that can do this safely and securely handle the job.[/LEGAL STUFF]
          .

          David - Trigger-happy HTGuide Admin

          Comment

          • Lex
            Moderator Emeritus
            • Apr 2001
            • 27461

            #6
            That legal advice is some EXCELLENT advice David. Anytime a novice starts thinking about cutting out studs or doing anything structurally to your dwelling, you needs to contact a general contractor and have experienced pros do that part. We recommend unconditionally HIRE a PROFESSIONAL!

            Regardless, HTGuide and it's moderators assume no responsibility for any DIY work or advice given by HTGuide Staff or Members and HTGuide, staff, and members, should be held harmless in the event of problems resultant from following any advice given on this forum. Bottom line is, our advice is hire a Pro, period. If they mess up, then your problems are between you and them.

            Lex
            Doug
            "I'm out there Jerry, and I'm loving every minute of it!" - Kramer

            Comment

            • David Meek
              Moderator Emeritus
              • Aug 2000
              • 8938

              #7
              Okay, have we put enough of a damper on the fun? :B We now return to our regularly scheduled entertainment. . . .
              .

              David - Trigger-happy HTGuide Admin

              Comment

              • denverdoc
                Member
                • Aug 2004
                • 66

                #8
                Thanks all

                Appreciate al the advice about avoiding a structural collapse--I have scheduled a walk thru/inspection with some "experts" from a local chain all hell bent on selling me 20 grand worth of speakers.Not to worry, will foll uw with a call to the builder and ask about it as this model was actually sold stock with a pass thru in the same location but much larger. I'll keep all apprised, now about that debate between the best CRT RPTV--looks like a great time to seize on this moribund technology and the terrific prices even new 720P integrated sets are slated to go for--anyone had a look at the new Toshiba's--have had a 65 incher of theirs for 6 years and am now a little partial, tho I must say the Big Mits looked damn good too, so many choices!!!
                denverdoc

                Comment

                • David Meek
                  Moderator Emeritus
                  • Aug 2000
                  • 8938

                  #9
                  Sorry Dr. J, I can't help you on the Toshiba or Mitsubishi question. I'm a Pioneer Elite kind of guy. I can say that some good friends of ours have had a TOTL Mits 65" (don't know the model) for 3 years and it's a very fine looking unit.
                  .

                  David - Trigger-happy HTGuide Admin

                  Comment

                  • Uncle Clive
                    Former Moderator
                    • Jan 2002
                    • 919

                    #10
                    DR. J. Welcome.

                    Make a list of specs that you'd like to have on your display. Remember room size, seating position, future hook-ups or re-model, should be taken into consideration for the proper size or if it will fit/work with your future plans. When you're through, focus on those units/brands that are built with your specs then go and audition them.

                    Have you considered front projection?
                    CLIVE




                    HEY!! Why buy movie tickets when you can own a Theater?

                    Comment

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