Tim L Making A Statement (or two)

[Tim L.]

Hello, all. This is my first post here, although I have been lurking and reading lots of great info about speaker building for several days now on this forum and the last several weeks elsewhere. My ultimate goal is to put together the finest budget audiophile 5.1 or 7.1 system that I possibly can. Music is the most important though, so that is why I want the Statements. I will post many pictures of my build to help those who follow. The pictures I have seen already posted have really helped me so far.

Trying to make a decision on what to build was tough, until I stumbled upon Curt's webpage and read about the Statements. I want to thank Jim H., whom I contacted recently for pointing me in the direction of this forum to read about experiences by so many that have already built what I am sure must be an incredible set of loudspeakers. This will be my first speaker build, but I have some carpentry and woodworking experience, so it should not be too difficult...I hope.

I began buying needed tools and ordered most of the speaker parts today, and will be starting the build asap. Madisound was out of stock on the Fountek ribbon tweeter, so I had to order from SpeakerCity for about $20 more.

The speakers I will be replacing are my trusty old floor standing Klipsch KG5.5's that I bought back in 94 new. I have already replaced my Jolida tube CD player and Jolida tube int amp with:

- Emotiva XPA-3 (this three channel amp will eventually power my center and the two rear channels).
- Emotiva USP-1 pre-amp.
- Emotiva ERC-1 CD Player
- Digital Phase AP2 floor standing speakers for rears
- JBL sub (used only with movies and TV, my Klipsch go low)

I will purchase and/or build within the next six months or so:

- Statement CC
- Statement monitors (only if I don't like the way the Digital Phase speakers integrate with the rest)
- Emotiva XPA-1 (x2) mono blocks, or the XPA-2 stereo amp if I can't swing the two big boys to power the Statements.
- Oppo blue-ray player
- Emotiva UMC-1 AV processor. (this component purchase will depend on Emotiva resolving some bugs, otherwise I will look elsewhere)

I have a hard time believing a better sounding system bought new can be had for what I am spending. Based on what I have read here, I'm betting those Emo mono blocks should really make those big Statements send me to total audio nirvana.

[john trials]

You're going to have a really cool system when you are done! I'd like to listen to those Emotive monoblocks. I've read that they are nice.

Madisound out of Founteks...sorry...I must have gotten the last ones (I just got 3 last week).

Maybe consider these Mini Statements for $600 in Dallas (such a great price, I wish he was closer to me!): http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=214815

[Tim L.]

You're going to have a really cool system when you are done! I'd like to listen to those Emotive monoblocks. I've read that they are nice.

Thanks, John. The XPA-3 really opened up my old Klipsch speakers, making them sound better than they ever have. Before purchase, I worried that the sound would be a drastic departure from the tube sound with the Jolida. In fact, the XPA-3 amp sounds neutral, not bright at all like so many other ss amps I have heard. I just don't know how one could get 500w/c and better stereo sound for $2K than with those XPA-1 mono blocks.

Madisound out of Founteks...sorry...I must have gotten the last ones (I just got 3 last week).

Maybe consider these Mini Statements for $600 in Dallas (such a great price, I wish he was closer to me!): http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=214815

Not a problem. In fact, I just want to thank you, because your build thread has already been a big help to me. As for the mini statements, I will have to pass. I traded my Jolida amp for the Digital Phase speakers, so I want to first give them a try as rears in my new system.

[sawdust]

Thanks, John. The XPA-3 really opened up my old Klipsch speakers, making them sound better than they ever have. Before purchase, I worried that the sound would be a drastic departure from the tube sound with the Jolida. In fact, the XPA-3 amp sounds neutral, not bright at all like so many other ss amps I have heard. I just don't know how one could get 500w/c and better stereo sound for $2K than with those XPA-1 mono blocks.



Not a problem. In fact, I just want to thank you, because your build thread has already been a big help to me. As for the mini statements, I will have to pass. I traded my Jolida amp for the Digital Phase speakers, so I want to first give them a try as rears in my new system.

I'm running two XPA-1's with the Statements. Clean and powerful comes to mind. The sound is effortless. Keep cranking up the volume and the Statements just get louder and louder with no distortion. The bass hits you in the chest and the highs are nice and smooth.... and that yummy midrange!

Sawdust

[john trials]

Not a problem. In fact, I just want to thank you, because your build thread has already been a big help to me.

I'm glad my build thread was helpful. If you have any questions, or need more detailed pics, just let me know.

Also, if you are having trouble getting drivers, http://www.meniscusaudio.com/ has the tweeters and mids for the Statement line. I've never ordered from them, but they have a lot of nice stuff on their website.

I'm running two XPA-1's with the Statements. Clean and powerful comes to mind. The sound is effortless. Keep cranking up the volume and the Statements just get louder and louder with no distortion. The bass hits you in the chest and the highs are nice and smooth.... and that yummy midrange!

Sawdust

Sounds like heaven!

[Tim L.]

I'm glad my build thread was helpful. If you have any questions, or need more detailed pics, just let me know.

Also, if you are having trouble getting drivers, http://www.meniscusaudio.com/ has the tweeters and mids for the Statement line. I've never ordered from them, but they have a lot of nice stuff on their website.

Thanks. I do have a couple of questions on my mind. Does anyone use both screws and glue when assembing the mdf panels together? Does anyone use dado, rabbet or other joinery, or are they just simple butt joints with glue?

[BigguyZ]

I haven't built the statements, but in my other projects I've found butt joints to be plenty strong. After all, this isn't load-bearing, really. Just make sure to use plenty of glue.

[john trials]

I've seen mainly butt joints being used. I have seen a few people use screws, but VERY few. You have to fill the screw holes, and make sure you don't have any screws where you will later roundover an edge, or do something similar. I made a 12" sub with just glue and butt joints and it's bomb-proof!

I've seen some people use dado and rabbet joints. It's very impressive. My shop doesn't have the tools to do that. It definitely makes assembly easier, as the different panels will line up perfectly.

The best tip I found before I started mine: make as many panels as you can oversized (1/8" to 1/4"). After the glue dries, use a flush trim bit and a router to cut off the excess. Obviously some parts have to be cut precisely to the desired size, but if you can flush trim most joints, you'll save yourself a lot of hassle in the long run.

[---k---]

Thanks. I do have a couple of questions on my mind. Does anyone use both screws and glue when assembing the mdf panels together? Does anyone use dado, rabbet or other joinery, or are they just simple butt joints with glue?

It is helpful to glue and screw when you don't have enough clamps or want to remove the clamps to move on to the next panel before 24 hours. But if you have lots of clamps and can wait, it isn't needed. Also beware of screws in edges where you're going to run a router over it.

I've recently become a big fan of a brad nailer.

[meb46]

My current project is doweled and glued. This seems to work well but is still dependent on having enough clamps I have always stayed away from using screws as I once heard a comment of screws introducing different vibrations into enclosures. I have nothing to confirm this, and it could be a misnomer. I also find that the glue drying time also means I have to pace myself and have some patience during cabinet assembly which is often a good thing

[Tim L.]

Well, I can't wait to get started. My next step is to figure out how I am going to get three sheets of 4x8 MDF stuffed into my Nissan Altima and get them home from the lumber yard.

[BeerParty]

Thanks. I do have a couple of questions on my mind. Does anyone use both screws and glue when assembing the mdf panels together? Does anyone use dado, rabbet or other joinery, or are they just simple butt joints with glue?

If you plan on using screws with MDF, make sure you pre-drill the holes. MDF has a nasty habit of blowing out if you put in screws without pre-drilling.

Also, if you want to use dadoes or rabbets, be aware that most MDF panels are a bit thinner than 'nominal' dimensions so measure your sheets before you start cutting.

[Hank]

No screws. No nails. Accurate 90 degree cuts, adequate glue and proper clamping and you'll be fine.

[Tim L.]

My driver order from PE arrived today, right on time. Unfortunately, I had to cancel my order for the Fountek tweets placed with SpeakerCity. When I placed the order last week, nothing was stated on their site that they were out of stock, and I received no email either. I was not notified of this until I called them today and was told they were back ordered. :M

Madisound has the driver, but only in silver, not black. I have decided to order the silver. It should look okay, since it should match the silver in the TB mids.

I also decided to go cheap with the router, and I now regret my decision. I am taking back the cheapie and getting a Bosch combo router kit instead. I wanted to use the Jasper circle jig, and it does not fit the cheap Skil router.

Another problem I have encountered is the lack of 1/2" MDF for the baffle in my small town. I am going to try to find a sheet in San Antonio and have it cut so I can transport it in my car.

I am dying to get started.

[john trials]

I've often thought that a silver Fountek tweeter might look nice in the Statements (like you said...it should match the mids). It'll be nice to see how it turns out. Again, if you want a black face plate, you might try Meniscus Audio (http://meniscusaudio.com/fountek-neocd3-p-395.html) or you could paint the face plate.

If you cannot get 1/2" MDF, you can use 3/4" MDF...just make sure you make the cuts in the rear of the baffle deeper, so the airflow behind the mid and woofer is not restricted. On my Statement CC, I'm using 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF for the baffle (just because I'm too cheap to go buy more 1/2" MDF just for this baffle...I'm making my Monitors and CC out of MDF left over from my Statement build).

[penngray]

I'm running two XPA-1's with the Statements. Clean and powerful comes to mind. The sound is effortless. Keep cranking up the volume and the Statements just get louder and louder with no distortion. The bass hits you in the chest and the highs are nice and smooth.... and that yummy midrange!

Sawdust

Seems like a huge waste of power? What is the max Watts the statements can take period. It seems like the XPA-3 has more then enough power to make the statement drivers start compressing.

[john trials]

Seems like a huge waste of power? What is the max Watts the statements can take period. It seems like the XPA-3 has more then enough power to make the statement drivers start compressing.

The key to beautiful sound is headroom!

[sawdust]

Seems like a huge waste of power? What is the max Watts the statements can take period. It seems like the XPA-3 has more then enough power to make the statement drivers start compressing.

I went from an XPA-2 to the dual XPA-1's and the sound is more dynamic and powerful to my ears. If you listen to music at really low levels, I doubt you'd hear the difference, but when you listen at higher levels, there is most definately an improvement. I'm not one for flowery audiophile talk, so I won't even try, but I do know what sounds good to me and the more power I've thrown at the Statements, the better they sound to me.

I believe the Statements are around 6 Ohms, so going by that the XPA-1's put out 750 watts per monoblock.
I think I read somewhere that many more speakers have been blown by underpowering them than overpowering them due to clipping of the amplifier signal.

Cheers,
Sawdust

[Tim L.]

you might try Meniscus Audio (http://meniscusaudio.com/fountek-neocd3-p-395.html) or you could paint the face plate.

Thanks, John. I did try Meniscus Audio, but their security certificate has expired, which caused my web browser to give alarm. That being the case, I will go with the silver from Madisound. No big deal.

I did find 1/2 inch MDF today at Home Depot in San Antonio, after checking at Lowes. I also picked up a doweling kit and precision drill guide. I think it will help me with aligning the panels and add a little bit of strength as well to the joints. I also picked up a Bosch combo router kit at Lowes, and the Jasper circle jigs at Woodcraft. There is some awesome stuff at Woodcraft, but they are at the high end price wise. I still want some more clamps, so I will order those from Harbor Freight today. Still need foam and crossover components. My budget is $1500 so at the rate it is going, it will be close.

[Tim L.]

Seems like a huge waste of power? What is the max Watts the statements can take period. It seems like the XPA-3 has more then enough power to make the statement drivers start compressing.

Having power to spare is way better than not having enough. I speak from experience. I had a Jolida JD302BRC tube amp. Its rated power output is 50 W per channel at 8 ohms, 25Hz to 60KHz. I currently own Klipsch KG5.5's, which are large floor standing speakers with sensitivity rated at 98dB @ 1watt/1meter. The Jolida, which BTW is a good quality budget audiophile tube amp, drove them with ease, but there just seemed to be something missing to my ear. I traded away my Jolida amp and bought the Emotiva XPA-3 for half what I paid for the Jolida, intending the XPA-3 as a stop gap measure until I could purchase either the XPA-2 or the XPA-1 mono blocks. With much more power, the dynamic headroom was greatly expanded with detail that I had not noticed before, even with speakers that are very sensitive. Power rules. A speakers power handling capability is not as important as having clean power from an amp that is not straining and clipping.

[john trials]

Still need foam and crossover components. My budget is $1500 so at the rate it is going, it will be close.

Unfaced fiberglass insulation can be used instead of foam for lining the interior of the cabinet. It'll be a lot less expensive. I don't know about TX, but my local Home Depot has small rolls of 2" thick Owens Corning unfaced insulation for about $4 a roll (I think I used 6 rolls to line my full-sized Statements). You can also buy the Kraft paper faced stuff and easily peel the paper off...that stuff is really inexpensive. Jim Holtz said in one of his many posts about Statements that fiberglass can be used, and is better than the foam at lower frequencies.

I got my 1" tunnel foam at a local fabric store. It's used for seat cushions. My local store has 50% off foam quite frequently. Just make sure it's open cell (you can blow air through it). I still have only 1 tunnel lined in each of my Statements. I didn't buy enough foam. I can easily compare lined tunnel to unlined tunnel now, and a lined tunnel cuts off a HUGE amount of sound. Soon I plan on testing fully unlined versus fully closed off to see how the sound differs. Basically I'm suggesting that if you're running out of money, the tunnel foam can be added later, after you're enjoying your speakers. I added the foam to my tunnels weeks after I had been listening to them.

If you do those 2 things, you will save a bunch of money over going to Foam By Mail.com.

The screw-type bar clamps at Harbor Freight are pretty good for the price. Avoid Harbor Freight's pistol-grip quick clamps. They don't work too well. I speak from experience. They clamp, but they do not hold a lot of pressure, so parts slip. About the only thing they're useful for is holding parts in place until I can get the screw clamps in place.

Using Erseaudio.com for crossover parts will save you some money, too.

[soundemon]

To continue hijacking a little: I was looking at the XPA-1 to power my statements, but was put off by the "Advanced microprocessor operating system" they list on the features for the amps. Can any users comment on this?

As for to screw or not, I used the technique of clamping the boards together so they were perfectly alligned, then drilling pilot holes, then gluing and screwing. This eliminated the glue-wander you get when trying to clamp glued surfaces and having them shimmey and slide all over the place, and also eliminated the tension of "get it clamped quick before the glue starts to set." which can be frusterating.

[john trials]

To continue hijacking a little: I was looking at the XPA-1 to power my statements, but was put off by the "Advanced microprocessor operating system" they list on the features for the amps. Can any users comment on this?

You have a Pass Labs X250, correct? You can't be thinking of downgrading to an Emotiva!?!?! Give Emotiva a call and let us know...a microprocessor does seem out of place in an amplifier.

[sawdust]

To continue hijacking a little: I was looking at the XPA-1 to power my statements, but was put off by the "Advanced microprocessor operating system" they list on the features for the amps. Can any users comment on this?

I don't know for sure, but I would think this has to do with the protection circuitry as they do not employ current limiters which I recall reading. The amp would destroy itself driven too hard if some sort of sophisticated protection scheme wasn't employed.

[Tim L.]

I don't know for sure, but I would think this has to do with the protection circuitry as they do not employ current limiters which I recall reading. The amp would destroy itself driven too hard if some sort of sophisticated protection scheme wasn't employed.

Emotiva recommends not using power conditioners or surge protectors with their amps because protection circuitry is built in.

[Tim L.]

)&^%&() !! double posts

[soundemon]

You have a Pass Labs X250, correct? You can't be thinking of downgrading to an Emotiva!?!?! Give Emotiva a call and let us know...a microprocessor does seem out of place in an amplifier.

I did end up with the X250 and am very happy with it. Before I'd bought, however, I was looking at these. :W

[Tim L.]

Not much to report yet. I have been tooling up to get ready for the build. I just finished building a new pair of really nice saw horses, and I also built a cutting table to make it easier to cut MDF using a portable power saw and edge guide. I don't have a table saw, and I don't have any room to store one right now. Gonna charge up the camera battery tonight. Tomorrow I start cutting the cabinet panels and baffles, and I will begin taking pictures of my progress.

[jeffc]

- Emotiva XPA-1 (x2) mono blocks, or the XPA-2 stereo amp if I can't swing the two big boys to power the Statements.

I have the XPA-5 (center and surrounds) and the XPA-2 for my mains. I am sure you will be just fine if you go the XPA-2 route she a beast in herself . Keep in mind the power (AC) you will need to power the mono blocks. Proabably need a couple of 20 amp circuits for the rack when all said and done :E
cheers Jeff

edit-- Totally agree with the headroom speak above, clipping is a bad bad thing

[Tim L.]

I have the XPA-5 (center and surrounds) and the XPA-2 for my mains. I am sure you will be just fine if you go the XPA-2 route she a beast in herself . Keep in mind the power (AC) you will need to power the mono blocks. Proabably need a couple of 20 amp circuits for the rack when all said and done :E
cheers Jeff

edit-- Totally agree with the headroom speak above, clipping is a bad bad thing

I will probably need that circuit for the XPA-2. The wiring in my 50's vintage house is wimpy. With the speakers and tools costing more than I expected, I will probably have to go with the XPA-2 to match up with my XPA-3 for a nice 5:1 system.

[Tim L.]

Got Some Cutting Done Today, First Photos Too

Well, I am off and running. I spent most of the day cutting the MDF sheets into the panels and whatnot. It was 101 degrees in the shade down here near the Mexican border with 55% humidity. I drank at least 10 large glasses of water, two cups of coffee, an extra large Barq's Root Beer from Jack In The Box, and three Coke Zeros. I'm still thirsty. It is amazing how much sweat a body can put out.

It took me a lot of time to cut two of the three sheets using a portable saw, but as the pictures show, I am short on storage space so I don't have a table saw. I used a carefully clamped edge guide, and worked slowly and carefully. I was rewarded with cuts as accurate as I would have gotten on a table saw. I got hot, thirsty and extremely filthy, but I had a blast. Few things are as enjoyable to me as doing work with wood and building something.

Just beginning:



Two of the three sheets cut:



My World Class Shop...My Carport:

[john trials]

Those saw horses and cutting table look great. You built yourself a really nice working area (a lot nicer than mine! I cut my MDF on some 2x4s placed on my driveway). Judging by the quality of your work table, I imagine your speakers are going to look great.

Only 55% humidity? That seems low for TX! Our humidity in CT has been near the 70% mark for the past few weeks. I'm always nervous about sweating on the MDF.

It looks like you're off to a great start. Keep the photos coming!

[Tim L.]

I have received all speaker parts now, including the Neo3.0 tweeters in silver, with the exception of the crossover parts and foam. Erse is backordered on six of the components. I am still debating whether or not to go with fiberglass or the 2" foam. I also ordered 10 steel bar clamps and 4 corner clamps from Harbor Freight that I still have not received. I will be back to work on the build on Thursday and will get everything done up to beginning the assembly of the panels. With only six clamps currently in my posession, I think I should wait for the clamp order to arrive.

I have a couple of questions.

I noticed a pretty big disparity between the crossover parts pricing from Erse Audio and Parts Express. Other than tighter tolerances, is there any difference in the sound using the cheaper stuff from Erse? I would think there would not be much if any, but I'm curious.

Also, to anyone's knowledge, will mine be the only Statements build so far using the silver Fountek tweeters?

[Jim Holtz]

I have received all speaker parts now, including the Neo3.0 tweeters in silver, with the exception of the crossover parts and foam. Erse is backordered on six of the components. I am still debating whether or not to go with fiberglass or the 2" foam. I also ordered 10 steel bar clamps and 4 corner clamps from Harbor Freight that I still have not received. I will be back to work on the build on Thursday and will get everything done up to beginning the assembly of the panels. With only six clamps currently in my posession, I think I should wait for the clamp order to arrive.

I have a couple of questions.

I noticed a pretty big disparity between the crossover parts pricing from Erse Audio and Parts Express. Other than tighter tolerances, is there any difference in the sound using the cheaper stuff from Erse? I would think there would not be much if any, but I'm curious.

Also, to anyone's knowledge, will mine be the only Statements build so far using the silver Fountek tweeters?

Hi Tim,

There's no difference in sound quality between good components in the crossover in a normal system. If budgets permit and you are driving them with a high end front end, I do like "tweaky" caps in the ribbon circuit. My favorite in somewhat affordable caps is Clarity SA. Anyway, Jantzen, Dayton or Solens will yield VERY similar results.

I'm not sure on the silver ribbon. I think someone else has but I'm not sure.

Jim

[Tim L.]

Thanks, Jim.

I want to line the mid tunnels with 1" thick open-celled charcoal colored packaging foam from Foam By Mail since this is the cheapest I have found. It comes in two densities, 1.1 lb and 1.6 lb. Can someone advise on which density would be preferable for this application? I'm guessing the higher density but it would be nice if someone could chime in. Thanks.

I am going to use the 2" wedge foam in the woofer chamber as recommended in the original design.

[meb46]

My understanding was that for Mid enclosures you are better to use a fibreglass stuffing instead of foam lining? My current project uses Bitumen lining and foam in the base cabinets, and then bitumen lining and long fibre-wool on the mids... can't comment on the performance yet, I have yet to finish assembly before I can test and comment.

[Jim Holtz]

My understanding was that for Mid enclosures you are better to use a fibreglass stuffing instead of foam lining? My current project uses Bitumen lining and foam in the base cabinets, and then bitumen lining and long fibre-wool on the mids... can't comment on the performance yet, I have yet to finish assembly before I can test and comment.

No! Use either foam or fiberglass to line the woofer cabinet walls but the mids require 1" open cell foam to line the mid tunnels to duplicate the original design.

This is well documented in the design and many build threads.

Jim

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks, Jim.

I want to line the mid tunnels with 1" thick open-celled charcoal colored packaging foam from Foam By Mail since this is the cheapest I have found. It comes in two densities, 1.1 lb and 1.6 lb. Can someone advise on which density would be preferable for this application? I'm guessing the higher density but it would be nice if someone could chime in. Thanks.

I am going to use the 2" wedge foam in the woofer chamber as recommended in the original design.

Hi Tim,

The 1.1 will be fine for the mid tunnels. If you've ordered the 1.6 lb. density, it'll work too just hold it back further from the drivers.

Jim

[Tim L.]

Thanks, Jim.

I was off yesterday and today, but did not get as much done as I would have liked. We got a new dog yesterday that we adopted from the local humane society, and I wanted to spend as much time as possible getting to know her. I did manage to work on the Statements today. I got the tunnels glued up along with the two baffles. I am off again Sat and Sun, so I hope to make a lot of headway getting the cabinets glued together as much as possible. I still have not received my crossover parts order, but I hope to have everything by early September, when I go on vacation. I hope to have the speakers finished by the end of my time off then.

Tunnels glue-up:



Baffles glue-up:

[Tim L.]

I worked on the Statements today. I laid out lines and began gluing, and cutting the tunnel holes in the rear panels. I got one cabinet almost together, sans base and baffle. So far everything is going without any problems. The downside is that it comes at the expense of speed. Seeing them come together, I am getting more and more excited! I want to hear them so bad.

Almost one cabinet down:



Unfortunately, I have to work the next seven days straight. Then vacation for nine straight days, and hopefully these babies will be done.

I have decided to paint the baffles and rear facings black and veneer the sides, plinth and top honey oak. This will match my Digital Phase speakers that will be my rears in my 5.1 home theater. When I build the Statement CC, it will be matched to these as well.

I have a question about mounting the crossovers. I like the idea of using the industrial strength velcro to mount them. I know Jim's original had the crossover mounted below the bottom woofer on the inside of the baffle. I believe this was done on one board if I am not mistaken. I have also seen some done with three separate boards. Where were they mounted when using three separate boards, or what would be the best option? Thanks.

[Jim Holtz]

I have a question about mounting the crossovers. I like the idea of using the industrial strength velcro to mount them. I know Jim's original had the crossover mounted below the bottom woofer on the inside of the baffle. I believe this was done on one board if I am not mistaken. I have also seen some done with three separate boards. Where were they mounted when using three separate boards, or what would be the best option? Thanks.

Hi Tim,

It really doesn't matter how you mount the crossovers as long as they're secure. I've built enough speakers over the years that positioning everything on one board worked best for me but if splitting them up works for you, go for it. They'll function the same.

Jim

[BeerParty]

I have a question about mounting the crossovers. I like the idea of using the industrial strength velcro to mount them.

If you do this, use just a few small pieces. I used two 6 inch long strips for each board (I split my crossover into two boards) and I had to use a long flat head screwdriver to pry the boards off after test fitting them. I cut the Velcro way down after that - they would have been impossible to get out of the cabinet with the front baffles on if I hadn't.

I know Jim's original had the crossover mounted below the bottom woofer on the inside of the baffle. I believe this was done on one board if I am not mistaken. I have also seen some done with three separate boards. Where were they mounted when using three separate boards, or what would be the best option? Thanks.

Depends on whether you think you will have to remove them after the cabinets are finished. I split mine in two so they would be thin enough to fit through the woofer hole. I then installed them on the sides on the cabinet right behind the woofer for easy access.

[john trials]

Here is what I did with the Statement crossovers. https://www.htguide.com/forum/showpo...3&postcount=12

One board means less connections and wires (fewer things to go wrong) and a cleaner install. Mounted below the woofer means no foam/fiberglass nearby (no problems with overheating resistors), and proximity to the port give you another hole to reach in and help mount them (although if you use velcro, it's a pretty easy install...I used screws and standoffs).

[Tim L.]

Here is what I did with the Statement crossovers. https://www.htguide.com/forum/showpo...3&postcount=12

One board means less connections and wires (fewer things to go wrong) and a cleaner install. Mounted below the woofer means no foam/fiberglass nearby (no problems with overheating resistors), and proximity to the port give you another hole to reach in and help mount them (although if you use velcro, it's a pretty easy install...I used screws and standoffs).

Thanks, guys. I think I will go with one board mounted below the woofer.

ERSE Audio has all the parts now except for two items. Here is what one of the sales persons stated:

"What I would recommend to replace the MPX25-03-100.0 is a combination of a few caps I do have. An MPX25-03-51.0 plus a 47.0 and 2.0 will give you the same value as the 100.0 as long as you wire them in parallel with each other. As for the other two the MPX63-03-47.0 will arrive tomorrow and the MPX40-03-56.0 I can substitute a 51.0 and the difference is negligible."

I'm wondering, should I have him send me what he does have, and order the two parts he does not have from PE? It seems this may be the simpler route as long as it does not hurt anything to mix the parts from two different sources as long as the values are the same. Or, use the substitution. The problem I have with this...I have never built a crossover, so any added parts may just complicate things and confuse me. Plus, is the difference in the 56.0 and the 51.0 truly negligible? What do you fellows think?

[kmibb]

Shipping charges may make it worth your while to order everything from PE.

Kevin