6/17/01
Obviously, I'm not as burned out on DIY as I thought I was, though I was sunburnt from doing some routing on the front baffle (Photos 5-8) outside on Sunday. Here's an update of the start of my next project, conventional 2-way speakers to be used as rear speakers, which I've dubbed: The SunTwos. I've tried to minimize the number of photos since most of the construction process has been covered on my SunOnes webpage.
Photo 1 : Here's the cut up MDF, plywood, and bracing. I also had the front baffle rounded over with a 3/4" roundover bit.
Photo 1 : I mark a border around the 1/4" thick plywood layer, which I will glue to the backside of the front baffle. This is to give the T-nuts (for the drivers) something to sink their teeth into when I pound them into the plywood later. Here is a shot of the glue that I applied to the backside.
Photo 1 : Got clamps? Just applying some clamping pressure to the plywood being glued to the backside of the front panel.
Photo 1 : Here I spend some time marking front baffles for the driver holes, and the flushmouting perimeter. Fred tried to give me the "paws-up"sign (I'm sure that's what he's thinking). I re-use the same driver placement as I did with the SunOnes. The tweeter center is located 3" of the top, and 3/4" off the center line. The midwoofer center is located 9.5" from the top, and 1/2" off the center line. The front baffle is 10" wide and 17" tall.
Photo 1 : Based on lessons learned on my previous attempts at flushmounting drivers, I decided to be a little smarter with the flush mounting of the drivers. So here you not only see the front baffles with the tweeter holes cut out, but you see a test piece I used to vertify the flushmount diameter, and the tweeter hole diameter. And somehow I still made one of the 2 flushmount diameters too wide - will need to slap some woof filler or caulk in the gap. Doh!
Photo 1 : Since the midwoofers have that funky truncated edges to them, I carefully route in the straight edges for them on the baffles. My router has a straight edge side to its base, so I just used a scrap MDF clamped on top of the baffle to give me a "fence" to guide the straight edge routing.
Photo 1 : Here's a shot of the router doing its thing. Currently it's doing the flushmounting of the midwoofer hole. That's my trusty Sears Router Guide that I use as a circle jig.
Photo 1 : After about 3.5 hours under a tree, but still managed to get my arms and feet burnt, I finish the driver hole routing. Here's a shot of the drivers in the holes on one baffle, and a non-occupied baffle. I wish I were faster getting these holes routed, but I tended to over-check the routing measurements so I don't have to re-do the baffles. I'm sure some people can do this in 1/3 of the time I took.
That's it for now. Here's the list of stuff to be done next:
1. Pop in the driver screw holes, and install the t-nuts.
2. Route in a big circle for the MDF brace that will separate the tweeter from the midwoofer (as in the SunOnes)
3. Glue/clamp together the sides of the boxes.
4. Glue the front baffles to the box sides.
5. Install the bracing.
6. Install the rear panel (dual-input terminal cup and port), countersink the screw hole for the wood screws.
7. Create the crossover panel
8. Screw in the drivers and connect them to the crossover, and then to the terminal cup's dual input.
8. Test and listen.
PatCave; HT Pix;Gear;DIY Projects;DVDs; LDs
Obviously, I'm not as burned out on DIY as I thought I was, though I was sunburnt from doing some routing on the front baffle (Photos 5-8) outside on Sunday. Here's an update of the start of my next project, conventional 2-way speakers to be used as rear speakers, which I've dubbed: The SunTwos. I've tried to minimize the number of photos since most of the construction process has been covered on my SunOnes webpage.
Photo 1 : Here's the cut up MDF, plywood, and bracing. I also had the front baffle rounded over with a 3/4" roundover bit.
Photo 1 : I mark a border around the 1/4" thick plywood layer, which I will glue to the backside of the front baffle. This is to give the T-nuts (for the drivers) something to sink their teeth into when I pound them into the plywood later. Here is a shot of the glue that I applied to the backside.
Photo 1 : Got clamps? Just applying some clamping pressure to the plywood being glued to the backside of the front panel.
Photo 1 : Here I spend some time marking front baffles for the driver holes, and the flushmouting perimeter. Fred tried to give me the "paws-up"sign (I'm sure that's what he's thinking). I re-use the same driver placement as I did with the SunOnes. The tweeter center is located 3" of the top, and 3/4" off the center line. The midwoofer center is located 9.5" from the top, and 1/2" off the center line. The front baffle is 10" wide and 17" tall.
Photo 1 : Based on lessons learned on my previous attempts at flushmounting drivers, I decided to be a little smarter with the flush mounting of the drivers. So here you not only see the front baffles with the tweeter holes cut out, but you see a test piece I used to vertify the flushmount diameter, and the tweeter hole diameter. And somehow I still made one of the 2 flushmount diameters too wide - will need to slap some woof filler or caulk in the gap. Doh!
Photo 1 : Since the midwoofers have that funky truncated edges to them, I carefully route in the straight edges for them on the baffles. My router has a straight edge side to its base, so I just used a scrap MDF clamped on top of the baffle to give me a "fence" to guide the straight edge routing.
Photo 1 : Here's a shot of the router doing its thing. Currently it's doing the flushmounting of the midwoofer hole. That's my trusty Sears Router Guide that I use as a circle jig.
Photo 1 : After about 3.5 hours under a tree, but still managed to get my arms and feet burnt, I finish the driver hole routing. Here's a shot of the drivers in the holes on one baffle, and a non-occupied baffle. I wish I were faster getting these holes routed, but I tended to over-check the routing measurements so I don't have to re-do the baffles. I'm sure some people can do this in 1/3 of the time I took.
That's it for now. Here's the list of stuff to be done next:
1. Pop in the driver screw holes, and install the t-nuts.
2. Route in a big circle for the MDF brace that will separate the tweeter from the midwoofer (as in the SunOnes)
3. Glue/clamp together the sides of the boxes.
4. Glue the front baffles to the box sides.
5. Install the bracing.
6. Install the rear panel (dual-input terminal cup and port), countersink the screw hole for the wood screws.
7. Create the crossover panel
8. Screw in the drivers and connect them to the crossover, and then to the terminal cup's dual input.
8. Test and listen.
PatCave; HT Pix;Gear;DIY Projects;DVDs; LDs
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