High End Audio Rack

[Bob]

First some background. I wanted to reconfigure one of my audio racks to lower it's profile and make room for two large amps at the bottom. Right now my components are stacked with the amps on the side. What I was looking for was a middle shelf plus a top shelf with the middle shelf 15" to 19" inches from the ground to make room for large amps. The only rack I found that came close was from Grand Prix http://www.grandprixaudio.com/. They were willing to make two custom racks (none of their standard racks have enough head room for large amps) for over $2000 apeice. Forget that.

So, now I plan to build my own. Well, actually to have them fabricated at a place that has built equipment for my business, and some custom metal furniture for me. My plans are to build a rack that holds two components on the top shelf, two on the middle shelf, and be high enough to accomodate two large amps on the bottom.

About 46" long, 20" wide, 19" to the first shelf, 9" to the top shelf.

The questions I have are four:

What metal to use for the legs and frames for the shelves? I have access to anything from polished steel, to stainless steel, to carbon fiber.

Should I fill the legs with sand to stop any ringing?

Should the bottom of the legs be threaded for spikes?

For the shelves, which is best:
Lexan
Glass
Wood
MDF

[Lexman]

Bob, you ask some tough questions.

For myself, I think casters, though not the best solution from an isolation standpoint, are still the best option, because I like to be able to slide my rack forward for cable access. As many times as I have pulled my rack out, I hate to think about where I would have been with a stationairy rack. After all, with points, your not sliding a rack out at all that has over 200 pounds of amp on the bottom 2 shelves. Someday, I hope to have rear access to my components. At that point, my opinion would change on Casters being a necessity.

As far as shelving, the more rigid the better, especially if not braced in the center. Nothing worse than shelf sag. Lexan sure has a nice ring to it, lol.

Sand fill, a good idea as far as deadening the shelf ringing. But really, will that be that much a factor? But then, the lustre of wood construction could be nice as well. Have you considered wood construction with the lexan shelves?

Custom metal fabrication in my mind will probably be a lot more than wood. But maybe I am wrong.

Lex

[ThomasW]

I'd think that custom fabricated carbon fiber would end up costing more than $2000

Don't use Lexan for the shelves it's not stiff enough, and will sage over time. Glass works well is very stiff, but shows all the dirt and dust. Also it "rings".

Wood shelves from marine, baltic or apple plywood wood be very stiff and light.

For ease of building, the legs could be solid oak. This is a nice compromise between looks strenght and ease of construction.

If you really want metal, then simply use welded mild steel. Have it sand blasted and spray painted or powder coated.




theAudioWorx
Klone-Audio

[Lexman]

Well, in glass, if the shelves are very thick at all, which they need to be, get ready to be shocked on prices. Thick glass to us commoners is quite expensive.

I am sure companies like Bell Ogetti get racehorse deals on volume glass purchases, and pass on those savings to some degree in the pricing of their racks.

At one time, I considered building a new wood based rack with glass shelves. I quickly saw this was no small project cost wise.

Lex

[ThomasW]

Lex

One trick to getting lower priced glass is buy it "unseamed" This means just a raw cut edges. Very sharp, but easily taken care of with some fine aluminium oxide sandpaper, and then polished with a propane plumbing torch. Usually people buy glass "seamed" and depending on the edge treatment chosen, this can be priced at several dollars per linear inch!




theAudioWorx
Klone-Audio

[Bob]

Thanks for the replies. I will probably use steel for the legs and then have it powder coated. I like the idea of mixing in wood with the metal for looks. But, don't like the way the edges of plywood look. Maybe, the edges could be hidden with a metal lip to hold the shelves in place. You really think the Lexan would sag? I will put a brace in the middle to prevent sagging.

I can get 3/4" marine grade birch plywood for free, we use it for making a smooth surface to do dolly moves in the film business. And, I can get Lexan for free. It is used to protect the camera and it's operators when guns are firing or we are filming explosions, etc. I also can get the metal and powder coating for free. I will only be paying for the fabrication.

Lexman, thanks for the concern about getting to the back. I keep everything away from the walls and have no trouble getting to the rear of components.

[ThomasW]

Will the Lexan flex? You bet unless you're going to use pieces 1" thick.

Done right metal and wood integrate well IMO

As for the edge on ply, use hardwood or thin metal as a laminate.




theAudioWorx
Klone-Audio